Marie Fromage

New Amsterdam Market

Take a sparkling fall day, add a well-produced food event and there will be smiles all around. 

The New Amsterdam Market was launched in 2005 near the downtown municipal buildings as an addition to the great urban market experience.  It’s currently located under the FDR, next to the South Street Seaport in front of the old Fulton Fish Market.  Goodbye overwhelming fish stench, hello artisanal cheese stink!

You may ask, “How is this different from the Union Square Market or other neighborhood markets for that matter?  Why would I want to head all the way downtown and brave the tourist crush of South Street Seaport?”   Here’s why: most vendors at Union Square Market are regional farmers bringing their wares to the urban masses.  The New Amsterdam Market features more regional food producers and purveyors than farmers.  Think cheese makers AND sellers (Saxelby Cheesemogers), butchers, pickle makers (Brooklyn Brine Co.), bakers (Sullivan Street Bakery), fish purveyors (Luke's Lobster) and small specialty restaurants (Porchetta) to name a few. 

First order of business – a restorative plate of freshly shucked oysters on the half shell from Seaport-area restaurant Stella.

Narragansett Creamery, based in Providence, RI had an outrageously delicious whole milk ricotta and they are in search of NYC retail opportunities.

The stall for hip Brooklyn butcher Marlow & Daughters was mobbed (yes, that's right, I said "hip". Butchers are currently rock stars in these parts).   Word was out about their deeply satisfying grass-fed beef chili.

Hudson Valley cheesemaker Doug Ginn from Twin Maple Farm was promoting his Hudson Red, a washed rind, buttery, stinky beauty made from raw Jersey cow’s milk. He too is looking for local retail exposure.

Sadly the New Amsterdam Market isn’t open every weekend and it was only this year that it started to become a once-a-month event (the next one is Nov. 22).  If it becomes more popular it will step up to a more frequent schedule, so go!

New Amsterdam Market, when open, is located South Street between Beekman Street and Peck Slip
On the East River waterfront in Lower Manhattan.  For more information visit their web site: www.newamsterdammarket.org

New York City Wine & Food Festival

The New York City Wine & Food Festival is a four-day, gut busting foodiepalooza featuring tastings, demos, tours, panel discussions and parties taking place throughout the city but centered mainly in and around the Chelsea Market and Meat Packing District.  

The Food Network is the driving force behind the festival, with a little help from Food & Wine and Travel & Leisure magazines and the net proceeds going to the Food Bank of New York and Share Our Strength.  All of it good, all of it overwhelming!  So many events, so little give in the waistband, so many miles that will be required to walk it all off.

It was my first time attending and the choices were mind-boggling.  My pal Gastro Chic, who went last year and had a full roster of events planned for this go-around, suggested I attend two show stoppers - “The Grand Tasting” on Pier 54 and the sold-out “Tour de Beef”, an inside look at the famed DeBragga and Spitler butchers.

The Grand Tasting

The Grand Tasting took place in Hudson River Park, which ran the length of Pier 54 and featured approximately 25 food providers along with about 50 wine and spirits makers.  It was sponsored by ShopRite, an area supermarket chain, a fact that gave me pause. ShopRite is fine and all, but it isn’t known to be an especially gourmet shopping experience.  Is this going to be all about being bombarded with corporate brands and PR blitz?  I took a deep breath and dove in.  Where to begin, where to begin…

The thing with these big tasting events is that the eating begins the minute you walk in, with little bites from here and there and eventually you hit a food wall about half way through;  fortunately some of the standout food tables were up front.  This event is really an opportunity for new-ish New York restaurants to get their name out to the local eaters and the press.  Here are some of the standouts:

10 Downing presented a tasty bite of ocean trout tartar with pickled mustard seeds, pine nuts, chorizo oil and a quail egg. 

Inside Park at St. Bart’s dished out “Kapusnica”, a stick-to-your-ribs stew of house-smoked meat, sauerkraut and caraway dumplings.    

Latin hot spot Yerba Buena Perry whipped up super delish arepas with coffee glazed pork belly and picked red onions.  

There was a tasty grilled New York steak crostini with truffled spinach & fresh corn salad from North Square, the restaurant inside the Washington Square Hotel.  

Chef Albert DiMeglio at Olana was celebrating a harvest-themed taste for the savory sweet combo with a chocolate pumpkin & almond tortelli with mostarda butter, pumpkin seed brittle and bites of pumpkin mousse.  

Dickson’s Farmstand Meats featured its delectable pork rillets and trotter terrine, all sourced from New York State farms.  Can’t wait to visit their new shop in the Chelsea Market.  

Another highlight was a short but informative and un-intimidating wine seminar lead by Andrea Robinson, the people’s sommelier.  

Overall, The Grand Tasting was well produced, fun and full of delicious bites and drinks, serving the foodie masses with a broad smile.  But I also found it to be a bit too branded and corporate.  For example, there was a ShopRite pavilion, a Delta Airlines tent and the island of Aruba had a table (thanks for the free nail file!).  And do I want Pepperidge Farm cookies & Barilla pasta at something like this, a “gourmet” event? Nope.  Onward!

Tour de Beef

A more toned-down festival feature was the “Tour de Beef” over at the DeBragga and Spitler warehouse, one of the last remaining butchers in the gentrified Meatpacking District.  This was more like it. 

DeBragga and Spitler are the butcher of choice for many of NYC’s top restaurants, experts at dry aging beef – a process that brought to mind, what else, cheese.

Everyone had to don hair nets and white coats before entering the chilly & pristine aging rooms, giving the tour a scientific air.

Charming owner Marc Sarrazin Jr. is passionate about his company, having learned the trade from his late father, who was a mentor to many of New York’s great chefs.

We finished up our visit to DeBragga and Spitler with a compare & contrast tasting of wet aged and dry aged beef, paired with some Coppola wines. 

The perfect coda to a frenzied foodie experience.

Cheese: Frère Fumant; Let's Call Her Brin; Cheese In Space

Something Stinky This Way Comes: 3-Corner Field Farm’s Frère Fumant

Frère Fumant hails from upstate New York and is a fantastic firm, raw sheep’s milk cheese inspired by the famous smoky, nutty Spanish cheese Idiazabal.   And if Idiazabal revs your engine, this will also take you there.  Try it grated over pasta for a wee smoky accent.

3-Corner Field Farm’s Frère Fumant; available in NYC at the Union Square Farmer’s market, at Saxelby Cheesemongers or via their web site, www.dairysheepfarm.com

 Suggested Names for Children of Cheese Lovers*

Brin (short for Brin D’Amour; for girls)

Jarls (short for Jarlsberg; for boys)

Emme (short for Emmentaler; for girls)

Hoch (short for Hoch Ybrig; for boys)

Val (short for Valdeon and, like “Pat”, it can go either way)

*Yes, I’m losing my mind!

Cheese in Space – Running Down A Dream: http://tinyurl.com/lfht2h

Beware the Foodie Boondoggle

Here’s where Marie Fromage gets cranky…

Le Fooding d’Amour

I like to think I have an open mind.  I’m patient and willing to try new things.  So when I heard about Le Fooding coming to New York, I jumped at the change to go. Jumped I tell you!

Le Fooding was started in Paris in 2000 as a way for young chefs to challenge the old guard and breathe new life into the staid Parisian dining scene. It’s an urban picnic that mixes casual cuisine with edgy DJs in a cool setting. 

Sounds like something that New Yorkers would absolutely gobble up. 

So Le Fooding plans to come to New York as a charity benefit for Action Against Hunger that will take place at P.S. 1 in Queens. Tickets sell out quickly.  The buzz is major.  I can’t wait.  I enlist Gastro Chic, my usual partner-in-dine to come along because this seems like it will be GREAT!

 Well, not so fast.  Trouble started brewing before we even got in the door.  Turns out, Le Fooding was all about les lines – lines to get in, lines for the drink tickets, lines for the food stations.  

There were hundreds of people there, and the chefs didn’t pre-plate anything, dishing the food out as they went along and at some stations just plain old running out of food. What?!?! The lines for some stations were so long we didn’t even try.  For example – they were scooping out ice cream from a tiny cart by hand, while about 75 people waited. And don’t get me started on the wine - $12 a glass and all you got was a 3 ounce pour.  Clearly the organizers of this event have no experience in pulling these things off.  And Veuve Clicquot was one of the sponsors – couldn’t they afford to hire event planners?  Do they even use event planners in France? While I believe the organizers had the best of intentions, Le Fooding is a good idea gone bad, at least with the New York edition.  

The Il Buco Pig Roast

Early Fall is that fantastic time of year when the weather sparkles and outdoor events are in abundance.  Il Buco, a trendy Italian restaurant in NoHo, was hosting its sixth annual pig festival.  The weather for the day was going to be gorgeous, so going to this event sounded like the perfect thing to do on a Sunday afternoon.  $20, solid food, sun on the face - yes, a good idea.

And it all looked lovely, the stage set for a laid-back yet festive autumn feast.  It all looked lovely…until it was your turn to eat.  

Way too much salad which made me suspicious, one sausage link, a mostly bread sandwich with a few slivers of roast pork, one ricotta fritter and, last but not least, actual slices of pork FAT. No meat.  Did they think we wouldn’t notice?

“Why are you serving slices of pork fat and no meat?” people were asking.  “This is a very fatty pig,” the lady behind the counter told us with a straight face.  Right.  The sausages were raw too.  

I brought mine back to get a cooked one and was given another raw one.  The ricotta fritter was the size of my thumb, and I have tiny hands.  Totally and completely unsatisfying and we felt as if we’d been had. 

What to do?  Vow never to return to Il Buco and head straight to the Great Jones Café for an amazing Bloody Mary served with a side of gritty soul music from the jukebox and service with a smile. An even better way to spend a Sunday afternoon!

Great Jones Café (NoHo): 54 Great Jones St. bet. Bowery & Lafayette; (212) 674-9304; www.greatjones.com

Bites: Hudson Valley Camembert; The Magna Carta & You; New Languages Jazz Festival; Bolt Bus

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Hudson Valley Camembert

A wonderful combo of sheep and cow’s milk, this little baby is bursting with buttery, creamy deliciousness.  Let it sit on the counter for a few hours to allow for peak ooziness and then dig in, especially tasty with crisp apples and an even crispier white wine or champagne.  Look for the tidy little white package sporting a label with a black sheep on a green background.  And if you find yourself in Old Chatham, NY any time soon, drive right in and get it straight from the source!

Old Chatham Sheepherding Co:  www.blacksheepcheese.com

Eats 

Summer may be over, but it’s not the end of enjoying good times in the great outdoors.  So, after a lovely autumn day on Governor’s Island, hop off the ferry and stroll over to some noteworthy edible hot spots.

Fraunces Tavern, The Magna Carta & You

Established in 1762 and still going strong, Fraunces Tavern will take you back to the days when George Washington roamed the streets of lower Manhattan. Grab a pint or two in the tavern then head to the Fraunces 

Tavern Museum, which is currently hosting a very special guest.  The one and only Magna Carta, the document that got this whole constitutional law stuff started way back in 1215, will be on display in the flesh for all to see until December 15. Head on down and let your freedom flag fly.

Fraunces Tavern (Financial District) 54 Pearl Street at Broad Street; 212-968-1776; www.frauncestavern.com

Stone Street

After the Magna Carta viewing, keep the history theme going with a stroll – and a meal – on Stone Street, a winding, cobble-stoned lane created in the 1600s (it’s the city’s first paved street) that is thankfully under the tourist radar.  Long forgotten for most of the twentieth century it earned landmark status in 1996, got a good scrub down, and is now a thriving,

lively and lovely spot to drink and dine al fresco at one of the many food establishments and pubs that line the way. Best time to go is on the weekends, where it is free of the financial 

district worker bees and full of laid-back lower Manhattan residents.    Stone Street is located in the lower Manhattan Financial District, between South William and Pearl Streets.

Music – New Languages Festival

Jazz is alive and well and currently stirring things up at McCarren Hall in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The New Languages Festival celebrates free jazz in all of its lively forms, kicking off its fifth year last Thursday with a stellar night, featuring the righteous and rollicking Respect Sextet, 

the atmospheric House of Mirrors and Darcy James Argue’s Secret Society, an 18-piece “steam punk big band” that will stretch your brain and get your toes tapping at the same time. And there’s more to come, so head on over to McCarren Hall and expand your musical horizons. 

 The New Languages Festival at McCarren Hall (until September 26):  98 Bayard Street, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. www.newlanguages.org; Only $10 for a night of sweet crazy music!

Travel – Bolt Bus

$17.50 and three and a half hours of my time - that’s all it cost to get from Midtown Manhattan to Boston on a recent weekend.  Nice and clean and with comfy seats.  And there’s wifi!  Well, some of the time. Super good deal here people. www.boltbus.com

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly, except for The Respect Sextet by Ryan Gould)

Bites: Clear the Room with Red Hawk; A Cheesy Read; Edible Tweets; Lamb Face Sandwich; Cape Escape

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Cowgirl Creamery’s dense triple-cream, cow’s milk washed rind Red Hawk.  Whoa, this one stinks to high heaven!  You may be asked to please take that thing outside or to open a window.  Not recommended for eating in cars.  But boy oh boy, this is a lusty one. Creamy and tangy, it hits all the right cheesy notes.  Look for it at your favorite fine cheese counter or buy it online at www.cowgirlcreamery.com.

A Cheesy Read:  The Cheese Chronicles

Liz Thorpe sure knows her way around a cheese cave.  As the Vice President at Murray’s Cheese in NYC she’s seen a curd or two in her day and has a deep knowledge and respect for American cheese making.   "The Cheese Chronicles” is part history book, part reference and part personal odyssey, all told in a breezy down-to-earth style.  This is my kind of beach reading! 

Cheesy Fun:  In case you were wondering, here's how to write “cheese” in Chinese. 

Eats

“If You Don’t Tweet, You Don’t Eat” -- Hildegard

Midtown worker bees – and eaters all over the city for that matter – are dancing with delight over a new wave of food trucks offering edibles that are actually good.   Trucks offering grass-fed beef burgers, schnitzel, cupcakes, waffles, dumplings and other treats can be found roaming the streets at any hour of the day and night.  But due to turf wars with the long-standing street food old guard these trucks are always on the move.  So the key to gaining access to their goodies is a little know-how provided courtesy of Twitter.   “Follow” your favorite truck via Twitter and you will get word – straight from the source – of exactly what time and where they will be parked for the day (or the hour).  This way you can plan precisely how long it will take to get from your desk to the truck to beat the usually crazy long line. Lunch hour is precious and in most cases following these tweets is worth the effort and a welcome break from Midtown munchie monotony.

Foodie Tawk – Heritage Radio Network

Heritage Radio Network is an internet radio site that features culinary taste makers from around the country, with regular shows from cheese queen Anne Saxelby to programs about wine, how-to tips and the intersection of music and food, among others.

The show “Urban Foragers”, hosted by Fatty Crab chef Zak Pelaccio recently featured my pal Joe Distefano, the culinary go-to guy for all you need to know about NYC’s varied ethnic delicacies. If you want to learn more about notable Asian restaurants and where to get a good lamb face sandwich, tune in!  And p.s. – Joe recently did a Queens food tour with star chefs Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert that will be featured in an article called “Feasting on Flushing” in the debut issue of Edible Queens, due to hit the streets in September. 

A Worthy Read:  “The Real Cost of Cheap Food” featured in the August 31 issue of Time Magazine. 

The abundant cheap food available to Americans is actually slowly killing the land, the ocean, the animals and us; not really cheap at all.  How can you help? Vote with your shopping cart: whenever possible buy organic, free-range, locally produced. For starters.

Travel Eats:  Cape Escape

Gastro Chic & I spent a recent long weekend eating our way though Chatham, Massachusetts, my favorite summer escape spot located on the elbow of Cape Cod. Bluefish, clams, clams, clams plus the quest for a good lobster roll were the order of the day, with lots of other delicious treats in between.

 Click here for my Cape favorites posting from way back when.  And here are Gastro Chic’s picks: The Chatham Squire, plus other notable nosh spots.

(Photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly, except  for Chatham Squire Monomoy steamer by Gastro Chic)

Bites: Cheesy Bianca; Meatballs Make the World Go ‘Round at Anella; Julie & Julia: Chick Flick + Foodiness = Major Summer Smash

Have tomato, will travel:  I am off to Cape Cod with my Union Square Market tomato in tow for a few days of long overdue beach time.  Hey, I can’t let that beautiful tomato fester away alone in my hot apartment! And if that cheese shop in Chatham is still in business I will be one very happy Fromage by-the-sea.

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Hawthorne Valley Farm’s Bianca – not so stinky at all, it’s actually a soft, fresh tangy cow’s milk cheese.  It makes the perfect breakfast cheese to spread on toast with fresh berries or jam.

It’s also delish crumbled over a plate of fresh market tomato slices or tossed into an omlette. The possibilities are endless!  Look for it at the Union Square Farmer’s Market in NYC or stop by their Columbia County, NY Farm Store the next time you’re swinging through the Hudson Valley.  www.hawthornevalleyfarm.org

Eats

Shameless Plug Alert: Anella

If you find yourself hungry in or near Greenpoint Brooklyn anytime soon, look to my friends at Anella to scratch that itch. Anella is the latest culinary bright spot to open in this growing-hipper-by-the-minute nabe, bringing you locally sourced/rustic yet refined Italian-inspired deliciousness. At the helm is Chef Michael Sullivan (formerly of Le Zinc and Chanterelle), a man who certainly knows his way around a terrine. 

Did I mention local? The produce is grown not only in their own backyard, it also comes from Rooftop Farms, a 6,000 square foot garden on the top of an old warehouse located around the corner on Eagle Street. They get their meat from the legendary Brooklyn butcher Paisanos and probably catch the fish with their bare hands (just kidding). Even the wood for their fabulously nubby bar is from the Steinway piano factory in Queens.  

I paid them a visit recently with Gastro Chic and D in tow and we were overwhelmed by all of the delectable choices on the menu. The solution? We over-ordered and stuffed our faces, swooning over the famous meatballs, a magical terrine of the day, shell steak with marrow, gremolata and luscious olive oil mashed potatoes, a pizza topped with white figs, prosciutto and balsamic honey, and many other treats.  Go and pay Anella a visit, it’s worthy of your attention!

Anella: Greenpoint, Brooklyn. 222 Franklin St.(at Green St.); 718-389-8100; Cash only.

(photos of Anella courtesy of Mijola Photography)

Food on Film

Julie & Julia: Chick flick + foodiness = major summer smash.  And it’s a solid one mostly for the Julia portion of the film, which focuses on Julia & Paul Child’s time in France when Mrs. Paul Child starts to find her groove and begins her late-in-life journey to become the legend that we love today.  As for Julie – that’s a sweet tale too, just a small one and not as compelling.   While Julia Child was an inspiration to Julie Powell, the parallels that the film tries to create between their two lives are a bit flimsy.  When you are in the neurotic Julie-land part of the film, you long for the delightful company of Julia (an inspired performance by Meryl Streep) & Paul Child (played by the sexy Stanley Tucci) in picturesque Paris. Overall though, it’s a well done movie with a big delicious heart that may inspire people to follow their own unique muse, whatever that may be!

Julie & Julia opens in theaters nationwide August 7.

Piadina Italian Flatbread - If You Can Make Pancakes, You Can Make These

Piadina

I had my first piadina while taking a pasta making class at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese in Bologna, Italy.  The chef made these for our midmorning snack and served them warm and layered with prosciutto and cheese.  My head nearly blew off by how tasty they were.  

This is a great bread recipe for the summer because there’s no need to turn on the oven!  If you can make pancakes, you can make these.

Makes 8 Piadina

3 ½ cups all purpose flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 Tablespoons baking powder
1 ¼ cups half & half (add a Tablespoon or 2 more if needed).

1.  Combine the flour, salt and baking power in a large bowl.

2.  Add the half & half. Using your hands (that’s right, your spectacularly clean hands) combine with the flour mixture until it resembles a coarse meal.

3.  Turn the contents of the bowl out onto a lightly floured surface.  Knead the dough until it comes together in a firm ball.

4.  Place in a bowl, brush the surface of the dough lightly with olive oil, cover with a clean dishtowel and allow the dough to rest for 1 hour.

5.  Remove dough from the bowl and divide it into 8 pieces.

6.  Roll each piece into a ball with your hand, then roll into a more-or-less round shape as thin as possible (think pizza or pasta dough).

7.  Pre-heat a flat griddle (or large cast iron or heavy stainless steel pan) and brush with olive oil.

8.  Add the dough round and cook until lightly browned for about 2-3 minutes per side.

9.  Place on large plate and proceed to cook the other rounds, stacking them as you go.

So now you have all of these Piadina in your house.  What now? Use your imagination – the possibilities are endless!  Here’s a couple of serving suggestions:

* Quick pizza: spread with pesto or tomato sauce, sprinkle with cheese and put it under the broiler until the cheese is melted.

* For breakfast: toast it lightly and top with eggs, cheese, bacon, tomatoes, etc.  Also good for breakfast – spread it with peanut butter and drizzle with honey or top with a banana.

* Spread with hummus and top with olives and tomatoes.

* Cut it into quarters and toast until crisp in a 350° oven. Serve with your dip of choice.

* Layer it with ham and cheese or whatever you fancy for a quick sandwich.

 

Storage suggestions:

Layer each Piadina with paper towels or wax paper, then wrap with plastic wrap; they should be good for a couple of days.  They also freeze well – allow to cool completely, layer as described above, wrap in plastic and then with foil.  Use as needed.

(Photo credit: all photos by Mary Connolly); Copyright 2009 Mary Connolly All Rights Reserved

 

A Day Away – Governors Island, NYC

I know what you’re thinking.  How does a trip to a park in New York City count as a getaway?  Doesn’t the subway go there (sort of)? Well yes, the subway does sort-of go there.  And then you hop onto a ferry (free!) and in about 5 minutes you will find yourself in an urban oasis, a world away surrounded by water, grass, trees and peace.

First stop - Water Taxi Beach

The journey ends right here for those who simply want some sand between their toes, hot sun on their faces, a little music, a hot dog and a cold drink to go with the spectacular view.  

But don't stop there...

There's so many options for fun and relaxation on Governors Island (see map here).  Once you've fueled up on beer and burgers, hop on a tram, start walking or rent a bike from Bike and Roll and hit the road; there's 172 acres to explore!

Cruise past Castle Williams...

                                       and make your way to Picnic Point, located at the Southern tip of the island.

If you time things right you'll be able to score a hammock! And the view of Lady Liberty can't be beat.  

Quirky and sometimes haunting moments pierce the peace as you tour the island, with art projects sponsored by Creative Time, FIGMENT, Sculptors Guild and others popping up here and there.  At Picnic Point you hear a woman sing "where are you going, where are you going" from the 70's musical "Godspell" every 15 minutes over loud speakers coming from a place that you can't quite pinpoint.  It's weird and brings to mind prayer time at a cult.  But I digress...

Also at Picnic Point is a three-acre organic farm and there's plans to sell the produce at Water Taxi Beach. 

More gorgeous open space can be found at the Parade Ground, located at the halfway point of the island. 

On the edge of the Parade Ground there are giant wind chimes that make eerie low tones evoking a haunted spooky feeling, a running theme on the island.

Governors Island has a large number of abandoned buildings, remnants of the days when the island served as a military outpost and most of the buildings are slated for demolition. However the Northern part of the island has many structures dating back to the 19th century and are protected as a historic district.  

The old Officer's Club

Several of the more interesting buildings have been opened up to the public and currently serve as art installations and galleries. 

St. Cornelius Chapel seems like it would be a typical old church until you step inside... 

                                                                                                

 

it looks like Satan lives here now!

 

Nolan Park has several small victorian homes that give this area a New England feel.

Many of these homes are now functioning as temporary art galleries, but I secretly fantasize about turning one of them into my summer cottage.

The grandest home of all is the Commanding Officers House. Host your wedding here!

There's a huge kitchen that has peepholes on the doors, so you can check on the caterers to make sure they're not slacking off.

But wait, there's more!  There's almost not enough time in the day to experience everything that Governors Island has to offer. There's artsy miniature golf, kayaking, ranger-lead tours of the historic district, live music concerts and there's even a day camp and art classes for the kiddies. And the beauty part is most of it is free-free-free. I like the sound of that!

Get up to the minute info by checking out the Governors Island blog. 

Governors Island is open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from May 30th through October 11th.  The ferry to Governors Island is located at the Battery Maritime Building, located next to the Staten Island Ferry terminal in Lower Manhattan. Click here for directions & a ferry schedule. 

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Bites: Dating Tips from the Cheese Mistress, Bar Centrale, La Cense Burgers, Dirt Candy

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes: Cabot Clothbound Cheddar

Oh yes.  This is REAL cheddar people, a small-batch Vermont cow’s milk cheese that has been swaddled in cloth, not wax, and tenderly aged to tangy perfection. Pair it with a sudsy brew for your own personal culinary fireworks display.   

Dating Tips from The Cheese Mistress

“Is anyone single? Try carrying around a Coor's Light soft cooler as a purse. Full of cheese. No beer. Boy, men go nuts for that. Don't forget the heels and tight shirt.”

A Glass of Wine, A Plate of Cheese & Thou:  Bar Centrale

Enjoy your wine and cheese in peace, tucked away in a cozy nook far from the paparazzi and your adoring fans. It’s so great to know that there are these intimate little secret places where one can relax with a nice piece of Cantalet, a robust red and sure, what the heck, while you’re at it order one of those luscious lobster rolls they are famous for. Go on, no one will know…

Bar Centrale:  Midtown West.  324 W 46th St. between 8^th & 9^th Avenues (no sign). 212-581-3130.

 

Eats

 La Cense Burger Truck

 There’s a new truck in town, one that’s been rolling around Midtown at lunchtime when folks are at their weakest, most hungry and with palates open to suggestion.  I’m always amazed by the lines at some of these mobile culinary question marks.  The La Cense Burger Truck has lines of epic proportions.  Why?  What makes this one different from all of the other lunch trucks? Well this one offers a burger made of 100% grass-fed, free range Black Angus beef that comes directly from their ranch in Montana.  No antibiotics, hormones or steroids.  No grain in the feed ever!  A beef that’s lower in fat and calories than regular beef and packed with Omega-3s and antioxidants!  A highly unusual find for worker bee lunch fare, which also comes with a promise of little-to-no guilt. 

But the bottom line for serious eaters always comes down to this - does it taste good? Will it haunt my dreams? Is the line worth it? Is it the best burger ever?  Um, it’s just ok.  It’s fine, but it lacks a little…something.  They top it off with caramelized onions and cheese and it’s still not quite there.  Evil, unnatural grain-fed beef makes for more flavor because the meat is more fatty; fat = flava.  So as it turns out, guilt tastes better.  And I’m deeply conflicted by that!

La Cense Burger Truck: for updates on truck location, follow them on Twitter.com or go to www.lacensebeef.com

Dirt Candy

 “I don’t care about your health. And I don’t care about your politics either. But I do care about cooking vegetables.”  -- Chef Amanda Cohen

Folks, that is a real chef talking.  Cook for taste, taste is the priority – that’s what it’s all about. I don’t object to meat-free meals and consider tofu just another protein source.  However, I’m not a fan of vegetarian restaurants.  Unless the cuisine is naturally, culturally vegetarian the food usually just plain old doesn’t taste good. However, Dirt Candy turns the standard vegetarian restaurant model on its ear and presents meat-free meals that are free of political agenda and are cooked to just taste great; it’s vegetarian for non-vegetarians.

This is not a place to come when you’re on a diet.  The ingredients are top quality and it’s the fat factor that makes this flavor engine go – cheese, eggs and cream are all part of the family here and are at the heart of a several inventive, swoon-inducing dishes.   To wit: an appetizer of jalapeño-studded hush puppies with a decadent maple butter; portobello mousse served foie gras style with toast rounds and a pear fennel compote; creamy grits with pickled shitake mushrooms topped with an oozy and crunchy tempura poached egg; a Greek salad featuring crispy rings of trumpet mushrooms drizzled with a preserved lemon dressing.  And for dessert? A deeply delicious and creamy popcorn pudding grabbed my attention on more than one occasion.

It’s a tiny little slip of a place so prime time reservations can be tough to get, but it’s worth the effort for the dead-serious cooking served with a light-hearted perspective that will leave you satisfied. 

Dirt Candy: 430 E. Ninth St.
 bet. 1st Ave  & Ave. A  (East Village); 212-228-7732; www.dirtcandynyc.com

(Photo credits: Cabot Cheddar, Bar Centrale & La Cense Burger – by Mary Connolly; Greek Salad & Jalapeno Hush Puppies– courtesy Dirt Candy)