Marie Fromage

Bites: All Hail The High Line; A Bit of Cheese; Rice Krispie Treat Tower of Delish

Travel: All Hail The High Line!

For as long as I can remember The High Line was an eye sore snaking through Chelsea, an abandoned elevated industrial railway in a once dicey part of town that the city just hadn’t gotten around to tearing down.  Fortunately for all of us a few visionaries had the bright idea to turn it into a park and after many years the dream has finally become a reality:  The High Line is now the latest example of reclaimed urban space in NYC that will make your heart sing.

The High Line runs from Gansevoort Street in the Meat Packing District to West 34^th Street.  Right now the park is complete up to West 20^th Street (the second section is slated to be completed in 2010).   

Enter on the corner of Gansevoort Street at Washington Street and let the stroll begin.

The old rails peek out here and there and have been planted with local wild flowers and weeds to give it a playful "overgrown" look.

Kick back on a chaise-like bench with a cup of coffee and take in a relaxing view of the Hudson.

You will come upon a theater of sorts with bleacher seating where you can relax and gaze at the traffic zooming up 10^th Avenue, which is surprisingly hypnotic.

The High Line is strictly for pedestrians with no bikes, rollerblades or pets allowed, which adds to the overall serenity vibe. And in New York City you need to grab on to any serenity you can find with both hands!

For more information visit the High Line web site at www.thehighline.org.

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Brunet - an Italian goat cheese delivered to you in a tidy, bloomy rind round. A little creamy & a little crumbly with a tangy kick!

A Glass of Wine, A Plate of Cheese & Thou:

The Bar Room at The Modern:  In the mood for a classy & sophisticated place to eat a little something but you can do without the hefty price tag?  May I suggest a bit of cheese and wine at the Bar Room at The Modern, where a solid and varied cheese selection + the least expensive glass of red wine on the menu (a robust Spanish Tinta del Pias) = cheapchiceats.  The Modern at MOMA: Midtown; 9 W. 53rd St.
(bet. 5th & 6th Aves.). 212-333-1220.  www.themodernnyc.com

Recipe

Rice Krispie Treat Tower of Delish

This is more a serving suggestion than an actual recipe.  But oh, what a suggestion – this will delight children young and old.  Perfect for your next BBQ, as it’s a lip-smacking show stopper that’s easy to put together.

* For the Rice Krispies Treat Balls:

3 Tbs. butter

1 package/10 oz. marshmallows

6 cups Rice Krispies cereal 

 * For the Dulce de Leche

Dulce de Leche is a type of caramel made from condensed milk that has been cooked down for a period of time.  It is extremely popular in Argentina and can be found in gourmet stores here, but it’s just as easy to make your own.

 1.     Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees. Make sure wire rack is in the middle of the oven.

2.     Fill a kettle with water and bring to a boil.

3.     Pour one 14 oz. can of condensed milk into a 9-inch pie pan.

4.     Cover pie pan tightly with aluminum foil. Place inside of a larger roasting pan. 

5.     Open oven and pull rack out part of the way. Place roasting pan on oven rack.  Fill the roasting pan with boiling pan, coming up to half the side of the pie pan. Carefully slide the rack into the oven and close the door.

6.     Bake for 1 hour until the milk is thick and caramel colored.  Remove pan from oven and allow to cool a bit.

7.     When water in pan has cooled a little, carefully remove pie pan. Remove the foil.

8.     Break up the caramel with a wire whisk and beat until smooth.

 * Other ingredients:

·      Semi-sweet chocolate, melted (use a good quality chocolate, such as a bar of  Ghirardelli). To melt, just use the microwave: break into pieces and place in a microwave safe bowl.  Heat on high for one minute and stir.  Keep heating and stirring in one minute intervals until melted.

·      Grated white chocolate OR coconut (or what the heck, use both).

* To Assemble the Tower

1. In large pot melt butter over low heat. Add marshmallows and stir until completely melted. Remove from heat.

2. Add the Rice Krispies to the butter-marshmallow mix and stir until completely coated.

3. Using your (spectacularly clean) hands pull off a piece of the warm cereal mixture and roll into the size of a golf ball. Place on a round serving platter or large plate. Continue making the balls and continue to stack on the plate until a cone shape is achieved.

4.  Drizzle with the prepared dulce de leche.

 5.     Drizzle with the melted chocolate.

6.     Sprinkle with white chocolate or coconut and serve to your drooling, adoring fans!

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Bites: Joy of Cheese, Monkey Bar, Koko Taylor

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Paglierina

This runny, oozy, gooey delight is a cow’s milk cheese that hails from the Piemonte region of Italy.  Think Camembert with more oomph.  Pair it with a crispy white wine for a cheesy flavor blast!

And Speaking of Stinky, Attend a Joy of Cheese Tasting!

Educate your palate and move your taste buds to the next level by attending a Joy of Cheese tasting, hosted by journalist and cheese expert Martin Johnson.  Martin will expand your cheese knowledge and appreciation in a pretense-free environment with generous samples! 

* I just attended the June 2 tasting at 10 Degrees, 121 St. Mark's Place (East Village); $25. Cheese theme: Good Cheese for Hard Times, 10 cheeses all under $25/pound.  This is the first of a summer series.

* June 8: 6:30pm at Nectar Wine Bar, 2235 Frederick Douglass Blvd /121st St. (Harlem); $25. Cheese theme: The 8 Best Cheeses of the American West.

 

* June 16: 7pm at d.b.a. Brooklyn, 113 North 7th St. in Williamsburg (a block and half west of the first L stop into Brooklyn, Bedford Avenue).  $20.  Cheese theme: the d.b.a Six Pack, a new series that pairs 6 cheeses with three beers.

For more info: 

1) Get on the mailing list by sending an email to:  thejoyofcheese@gmail.com

2) Go to the Joy of Cheese web site: www.thejoyofcheese.blogspot.com or 

3) Purchase your ticket in advance via BrownPaperTickets.com

Eats

Monkey Bar

Vanity Fair editor/restaurateur Graydon Carter takes his exclusive hot spot formula uptown to the East Side and presents a buffed-up, old school swanky martini scene. The food? It’s a salute to continental, classed-up country club fare.  On the night Gastro Chic & I checked it out the meal was merely ok, no head rockets. It was recently announced that they brought in superstar chef Larry Forgione to whip things into shape so I have high hopes. But really, who cares about the grub when Hugh Grant is coming down the stairs! So this will be a classic cool hot spot with chopped salad on the side.  And that’s not such a bad thing!

Monkey Bar at the Elysée Hotel: 60 E. 54th St. between Madison & Park Aves. (Midtown East); 212-308-2950

Music

R.I.P Koko Taylor, a royal blues queen of the gritty, Wang-Dang-Doodle variety who passed away this week at the age of 80.

I had the pleasure of seeing her play live many times.  Koko, thank you for the inspiration.

(photo credits: Paglierina – courtesy of www.frescaitalia.com; Martin Johnson & The Cheese Mistress – by Mary Connolly; Monkey Bar - courtesy Gastro Chic; Koko Taylor – courtesy Marc Norberg for KokoTaylor.com)

Italy - Land of History, Land of Pleasure, Part II of II

Rome!

I took the sleek and comfy high-speed Eurostar Italia train from Bologna’s tidy Centrale train station to Rome’s bustling Termini station.  Boom - in just under 3 hours I arrive.  Rome’s frenetic energy greeted me with the open arms of a glamorous and highly amusing old friend.  It was my third trip to Rome but it would be my first time to just relax and enjoy the place on its own terms.  I’d seen all of the major sites more than once, waited on the lines and endured the tourist sensory overload and fatigue.  Now I can relax, sleep in a bit, see some friends and MAKE MORE PASTA!

A Place to Lay Your Head – Hotel Art by the Spanish Steps

Go down a little side street... then down another, hang a right at the art gallery...

and walk down the cobbled corridor and you’ve arrived – Hotel Art is a quirky and cool little boutique design hotel tucked away in a former chapel.  

It’s located exactly 3 minutes from the Spanish Steps, a great area right in the center of things, right near the subway in one of the nicer parts of town. They’ve outfitted and updated this former sacred space with every modern convenience, giving the place a feel for the past that’s rooted very much in the present.

I was escorted to the “orange” floor – see the photo.  It took me a minute to get my bearings when I exited the elevator (will I be able to find my room if I had a few too many at dinner?) and I began to worry about what my room was going to look like.  

Thankfully, my room was a small but serene oasis of muted colors, linen sheets, big smushy duvet, a movie star bathrobe with slippers and a nice selection of yummy Etro toiletries.  And breakfast was included!  

Hotel Art by the Spanish Steps:  Via Margutta 56; +39.06.328711

Rooms during the low season start at  185.00 Euro per night (which I consider a deal for what you get & the location). www.hotelart.it

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Pasta Time with Diane Seed

"I fell in love with an Italian, then I fell in love with Italy, and then I fell in love with the food…and now I just stay for the food."

And thus began my evening of pasta making with renowned cookbook author and culinary tour guide Diane Seed.  Diane, who is originally from Great Britain, has made Rome her home base for over 30 years and made a career of translating Italian recipes and lifestyle for the English speaking world.  

You probably have a copy of her famous cookbook “The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces” on your bookshelf and don’t even realize it.  What are you waiting for?  Bust it out and get cooking!  Not only are her recipes authentic, they are surprisingly easy and delicious.  We spent a relaxed evening in her kitchen, with a view of the Coliseum, making delicious dishes that I’ve already cooked for friends a few times over back in New York.  This was also the perfect complement to my pasta making lessons in Bologna.  There, I created the pasta by hand but didn’t actually learn how to cook it (I know, how odd).  With Diane I learned not only how to cook it but what sauces pair with which kind of pasta best, plus a few other tips such as:

 * 80% of Italians use dried pasta, and the pasta they use is De Cecco (made from durum/semolina wheat).  

* When using canned tomatoes, use whole San Marzano plum tomatoes (look for this on the label).

* Italian men love women.  Some, a little too much!

Here’s one of my favorite recipes from the lesson:

Tagliatelle al Salmone (Tagliatelle with a Smoked Salmon Cream Sauce)

Adapted from Diane Seed

1 lb. Tagliatelle

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

½ small onion, coarsely chopped

4-5 oz. smoked salmon (half coarsely chopped, the other half cut into strips and reserved for garnish)

7 fl. oz. heavy cream

Fresh cracked black pepper, to taste

A handful of flat leaf Italian parsley, coarsely chopped (optional; this is my personal spin to this dish and gives it an extra fresh pop).

Fill a large pot with water, add a healthy handful of salt (make it like the sea!) and cook pasta according to package directions.

While the water is boiling and pasta is cooking, melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan over a low flame.  Add the onions and cook until softened (but not browned). Add half of the smoked salmon, roughly chopped and add the cream.  Cook until salmon and cream are warmed through. 

Pour the salmon mixture into a food processor and combine until smooth. 

Drain the cooked pasta and add to a large serving bowl.  Add the salmon sauce, salmon strips, chopped parsley and black pepper.  Toss gently and serve immediately.  Now wasn’t that easy? 

The Italian Gourmet - Diane Seed's Cookery School: www.italiangourmet.com

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Other Treats & Eats

La Terrazza Bar at Hotel Eden

Even though actually staying at The Hotel Eden this time around wasn’t in the budget for moi, I sure as heck could afford a nice glass of wine in their fabulous and glamorous Terrazza Bar!  Go at cocktail time and watch the sun set slowly over the eternal city with a view of St. Peter's Basilica in the distance (click here to see what I’m talking about). With the price of the wine you get a very nice side bonus of some canapé, olives, chips and nuts, plus a floor show in the form of fashionable Italians and assorted international men of mystery.

La Terrazza Bar at Hotel Eden:  Via Ludovisi, 49; +39 06 478 121

La Buvette

I had one night when I dined alone in Rome and I had no idea where to go.  I asked the helpful concierge at the hotel to recommend a place and was directed to La Buvette, which was a short walk from my hotel.  My expectations were very low and I anticipated a tourist trap where I’d be seated next to the kitchen, ignored by the wait staff and served drab food. I soon discovered my fears were unwarranted and I ended up having a terrific meal.  The gracious staff escorted me to their subterranean dining lair, sat me at a great table right in the center of the room and the meal procession began.  I swooned over a dish of baked tender baby eggplant stuffed with mozzarella, black olives, grape tomatoes and toasted pine nuts.  The baby lamb chops had a crispy, salty crust and were gnaw-to-the-bone scrumptious, served with a lush fava bean puree.  And for dessert, a voluptuous vanilla semi-freddo studded with nougat and Gianduja chocolate. Oh baby.

La Buvette: Via Vittoria, 47; +39 066 790383

Palatium Enoteca Regionale

Palatium is a chic and modern wine bar located near the Spanish Steps that highlights the region of Lazio, the area of Italy that calls Rome its capital. Great for a nice glass of robust wine and a plate of Rome’s famous fried artichokes.

Palatium Enoteca Regionale: Via Frattina, 94; +39 066 9202132

Granita Caffe from Tazza D’Oro

Take a break from sight seeing and add a turbo twist to your afternoon espresso with a Granita Caffe, a frosty coffee slushy served with a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream on top. Starbucks has nothing on this!

Tazza D’Oro:  Via degli Orfani, 84 (near the Pantheon); +39 06 6789792

Pizza Bianca from Forno Campo de' Fiori

 Pizza Bianca. Think of the best, most chewy, crusty pizza you’ve ever had and take away the sauce and cheese. Add fresh rosemary, olive oil and salt and you are about to eat one of the truly most delicious, straight forward Italian treats known to man. Grab a few slices, lean against the nearby fountain and savor each bite with the sun on your face and the market bustling around you.

Forno Campo De' Fiori, 22 - Vicolo del Gallo, 14 ; +39 06.68806662

The Pantheon

Hands down the oldest man-made thing I’ve ever seen and my favorite Roman site.  The Pantheon is also a source of wisdom, a reminder to me to relax, have a gelato, savor it and be in the moment because this too shall pass.  The Pantheon, like the dude, abides.

 

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Traveling alone in Italy is a snap, even with a shaky command of the language, as the people there are generally warm and generous.  To ease your way, don’t dress like a slob, mind your manners and learn a few key phrases, such as:

 “Please” =  Per favore

“Thank you” = Grazie

“Excuse me” = Scusi

“I’m sorry, I don’t understand, do you speak English?” =  Mi dispiace, non capisco, parla inglese?

“Don’t touch me.” = Non mi tocchi

“Help!” = Aiuto!

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Getting There & Getting Around

I flew to Italy round-trip via KLM (with a stop in Amsterdam each way; $650 coach class from New York/JFK).  Hint: I lurked all of the travel search engines until the right configuration of price & layover time (no more than 2 hours) appeared, finally pressing the button at 12:30am on a weeknight approximately 6 weeks before my trip.  In Bologna I walked and took a taxi around town as-needed. In Rome, I walked, took the subway and occasionally took a taxi. Easy-breezy and affordable.

Buon viaggio!

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(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Italy - Land of History, Land of Pleasure, Part I of II

It was time.  Time for me to take a break, leave the country and refresh my jaded heart and even more jaded palate.  For an extra twist, this time around I was traveling alone, “sono uno”.  Italy was calling as the perfect place to go solo, to gain some perspective and some new cooking skills! 

Ah, Bologna

Italy has long been regarded as a culinary Mecca for foodies, and the Emilia-Romagna region - Bologna is its capital city - has been specifically noted as the center of major Italian deliciousness. Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, tortellini, mortadella (so not your Oscar Meyer), ragù alla Bolognese all hail from this region.  It made perfect sense to me that this should be where I learn the subtleties of the sfoglia (flour and egg pasta). 

The Main Event - La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 

La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese was the primary reason for my visit to Bologna.  Italian food celeb Alessandra Spisni founded the school and runs it with her family, all award-winning pasta makers.  I opted for a 2-day course of study and cranked out tortellini (tiny, meat-filled bundles of joy), tortelloni (similar to tortellini but bigger and cheese filled), spinach ravioli, tagliatelle, penne, gnocchi – the list goes on.  

There’s a dead serious emphasis here on the techniques of hand-made, hand-rolled pasta. But there was also spontaneous singing, laughing, snacking and flour throwing! And at the end of our lessons Papa Spisni turned our fresh pasta into mind-blowing culinary miracles and we all sat down together and enjoyed the fruits of our labors with a nice bottle of wine. Ahhh.

This, people, is why I came to Italy.  I was in heaven.  

La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese: Via Malvasia 49; +39-051-6491576

www.lavecchiascuola.com 

A Place to Lay Your Head – Best Western Hotel San Donato

Yes, that’s right.  I stayed at a Best Western in Italy.  Why would I do that you ask?  I was on vacation!  Why not treat myself and stay at the swanky Grand Hotel Baglioni?  Well here’s something I didn’t realize pre-trip and will now always refer to for trips to come – Best Western hotels rock.  

For 99 euros a night a got a simple but huge, comfortable, clean and safe room in a hotel that was a former palazzo, located smack-dab in the middle town, steps from the famous two towers. 

Every morning I awoke to the sounds of soft church bells ringing in the distance.  The staff was super helpful and a huge, sumptuous breakfast was included, complete with made-to-order cappuccino. What a deal!

Best Western Hotel San Donato : Via Zamboni 16, Bologna; +39 051 235395; www.hotelsandonato.it

What to See & What to Do

Bologna is a city for wandering: much of the city is a beautiful, mellow medieval jewel box, famous for its miles of porticos and picturesque piazzas, with the Piazza Maggiore being the most majestic. 

Pop into Santo Stefano, a 1,000 year old complex of little churches. 

 

Stroll the food market, located on and around Via Clavature and Via Caprarie.  

Be sure to stop in to La Baita for cheese (Via Pescherie Vecchie) and A.F. Tamborini (Via Caprarie) for salami and other portable food treats. 

Go shopping!  Some of the most high-end boutiques can be found in and around the Piazza Maggiore and on Via Carbonesi.  Or you can do what I often did and just sit with a refreshing Campari in a pretty little piazza and watch the locals…doing the exact same thing.

What about the restaurants?  I have to confess that the most amazing food I had in Bologna was at the pasta school. Not only was I on a pasta making mission, I was there to sample the deeply restorative and comforting “tortellini en brodo” I’d heard about.  Well, we had it at the school and it ruined me for all other brodo, I wanted no other.  Their ragù was pretty incredible too and, by the way, they make it with lard. Yes – LARD.  They cook with lard over there, which explains so much of the transcendent yum.  Lucky for you the school is sometimes open to the public for meals if you call ahead, which I strongly encourage you to do!

I did get to experience a few local haunts when my Bologna-based friends took me on a tour of their favorite spots one mellow evening. First stop – a glass of prosecco at the rustic Osteria del Sole (Via de' Ranocchi 1), a 500 year old wine bar that’s bursting with character. 

Then, on to dinner at the friendly Trattoria Leonida (Vicolo Alemagna 2) to sample some regional specialties.  Think cozy, clove-infused wild boar stew over polenta, a meltingly tender pie of pheasant with truffles and surprisingly smooth yet chest-clearing sips of grappa to melt it all down.

 

What did I miss? A lot.  I was in Bologna to learn, not really sight see, so there’s quite a bit I need to return for. This is a thriving university town that’s brimming with stimulating activities!  There’s art:  MAMBO is the local modern art museum and there’s also Museo Morandi which is dedicated to the works of Giorgio Morandi, the famous still life artist.  There’s film: Cineteca di Bologna houses the entire Charlie Chaplin estate (and it’s unclear why) and also serves as a general town center for all things cinema.  There’s endless beautiful architecture to take in. 

There are fascinating day trips:  you can head out to Parma or Modena to the dairies where the glorious Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is crafted, and while you’re in Modena swing by the vineyards and see how they brew up that Balsamic vinegar that you love to toss in your salad.  And did you know that some of the world’s hottest cars: the Ferrari, the Lamborghini, the Ducati, the Maserati and the rare Pagani are made in this region?  Most of the factories are not open to the public, but many of these carmakers do have museums, so maybe you can at least touch one.  

And of course, I need to go back to sample more of the food!  There’s an organization, founded in Bologna, of Italian home cooks called “Cesarine” who are dedicated to preserving and promoting Italian culinary traditions and who host dinners in their homes.  Wouldn’t THAT be fun?

But that would all have to wait for another time.  Rome was waiting and I needed to move along…

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

New Orleans: Beyond Beignets and Bourbon Street

New Orleans is bouncing back from Hurricane Katrina with a soulful vengeance! Everything old is new again in this town filled with passionate and creative spirits who are committed to the rebirth of this great city. I recently spent an action-packed, sleep-deprived, gut-busting 48 hours in The Big Easy guided by a New Orleans local, the travel writer Carrie Williamson.

We’re here! We’re Creole! Get used to it! There is big fun to be had in this town, from the French Quarter and beyond. If it’s your first visit to New Orleans, you absolutely have to hit the classics: café au lait and beignets at Café du Monde (trust me, don’t wear black), music at Preservation Hall (home of classic New Orleans jazz), the debauchery on Bourbon Street (good times, good times), the breakfast at Brennan’s (home of Banana’s Foster), the Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s (you won’t remember much after that). But if you have some extra time, aren’t too hung over and have a sense of adventure, hop on a streetcar or hail a cab and investigate the other, equally enticing parts of town.

Let the good times roll y’all!

A Place to Lay Your Head

The International House Hotel

Ooo-la-la my Creole cutie, this place oozes with New Orleans sensuality. Stylish and seductive lodging can be found at this boutique hotel, located a walk-able distance from the French Quarter in the central business district. The huge luxurious bed in your room is worth the trip, and at the end of a decadent night on the town it’s a welcome and inviting place to dive into.

Central Business District: 221 Camp Street; (504) 553 9550; www.ihhotel.com

The Feasting

The problem with only 48 hours in New Orleans is that there are too many great places to eat and not enough time! Still, within the short time I was there I managed to hit some major culinary high notes.

Cochon Butcher

It’s a butcher shop! It’s a wine bar! It’s a hip meat locker! I’d read about Cochon Butcher in the New York Times a few days before I set out for my trip and was intrigued by Chef Donald Link and his Cajun homage to house-cured meaty goodness. Sidle-up to the “Swine Bar”, request the salumi plate from one of the young and enthusiastic bartenders (the lomo with fennel is outrageously good) and a glass of robust Italian red and prepare to rock your taste buds.

Warehouse District: 930 Tchoupitoulas; (504) 588-PORK

www.cochonbutcher.com

MiLa

I have to admit, the fact that this restaurant is set inside of a chain hotel gave me pause, but I was familiar with the chefs so I knew that it would be at the very least good. Well goodness gracious me - turns out this was one of the best meals I’ve ever had anywhere! Husband and wife team Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing had made a splash in New York City with their classically trained Southern-inspired cooking at Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar and Dirty Bird To Go. They returned to the South to reconnect with their roots and the snazzy space at MiLa gives them a chance to spread their wings beyond the confines of tight Gotham real estate. What you will find when you dine at MiLa is dead serious cooking with a contemporary vision applied to seasonal and locally sourced ingredients - they even have a dedicated farm!

I was wowed by the food from beginning to end – it was soulful and confident, relaxed yet refined. Highlights included the silky and savory lima bean puree to slather on the bread; the pan-roasted sweet breads over black truffle-studded grits with a bacon jus (crack-like and I wanted to lick the plate clean); tender barbeque lobster that burst with fresh citrus; the butter poached chicken that was meltingly tender. All of it - a pure and delectable experience.

Central Business District: At the Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel, 817 Common St.; (504)412-2580; www.milaneworleans.com

August

Renowned chef John Besh serves up sophisticated regional cuisine prepared with European flair inside a warm and elegant carriage house. Dishes that continue to haunt me include the horseradish-crusted P&J oysters, the gnocchi with truffles and, not on the menu but served with your post-meal coffee, the dainty and addictive ginger snap meringues.

Central Business District: 301 Tchoupitoulas St.; (504) 299-9777

www.restaurantaugust.com

Casamento’s

Established in 1919, this New Orleans institution is one of the best places in town to get your oyster fix. It’s an ancient and quirky place and it isn’t always open so be sure to call ahead. There’s usually a line and it’s worth the wait; I hear the oyster loaf is the stuff of legends. But you also have the option of standing at the tiled counter and enjoying a dozen of fresh oysters on the half shell with a view of the flirty fella behind the bar shucking an endless mountain of bivalves. Make sure you smile back and he’ll toss you a few extra! Note: Cash Only. Uptown: 4330 Magazine St.; (504) 895-9761;

www.casamentosrestaurant.com

Domilise’s Po-Boys

Housed within a humble ramshackle building lies sandwich greatness. When they call your number order a “large half & half seafood dressed” (half fried shrimp, half fried oysters, ketchup, hot sauce, mayo, lettuce & tomato on a crusty loaf of Leidenheimer’s French bread) that’s more than enough for two.

Watch them fry it up while you wait and stalk the packed room for a seat. Be sure to get a bag of Zapp’s chips and a cold bottle of coke and settle in for a lunch that will ruin you for all other lunches. Note: Cash Only.

Uptown: 240 Annunciation St; (504) 899-9126

Franky and Johnny’s

Franky and Johnny’s is a bit off the beaten path and is a friendly local’s favorite that looks like an old man’s drinking bar. But don’t be fooled – this is where you go to get your spicy crawfish boil when in season (late January through June) with a side of gator nuggets, if you have to scratch that itch.

Uptown: 321 Arabella St; (504) 899-9146

www.frankyandjohnnys.com

Ralph’s on the Park

We skipped room service and headed over to Ralph’s on the Park, located in a historic building on City Park (home to beautiful, ancient, moss-draped live oaks). Ralph’s is a place where the locals come to celebrate family events and enjoy a proper Creole brunch to take the edge off of the echo of the night before. Get yourself back on track with a Bloody Mary and the deeply satisfying “Eggs Sardou”, a plate of poached eggs, artichoke cakes, creamed spinach with a splash of Herbsaint and crispy Tasso ham.

Mid-City: 900 City Park Ave.; (504) 488-1000 www.ralphsonthepark.com

Bottoms Up! Notable Cocktails around town

You haven’t been to New Orleans until you’ve been knocked out by the famous “Hurricane” cocktail at Pat O’Brien’s. But there are other equally decadent and mind-numbing concoctions to be had, with a side of character.

A Bloody Mary at The Columns Hotel: You probably won’t want to stay here and my guess is it’s haunted (it was also the setting for the notorious Louis Malle film “Pretty Baby”). But you won’t want to miss having a Bloody Mary on the veranda at this historic Southern Gothic watering hole for a lazy afternoon of watching the streetcars and characters glide by.

Garden District: 3811 St. Charles Avenue; 504.899.9308

www.thecolumns.com

Lucid Absinthe “La Louche” at loa: Enjoy the notorious elixir and ritual at the hip and sexy loa, the lobby lounge at The International House Hotel. Don’t worry, it won’t make you go all van Gogh and cut off your ear. But it WILL go straight to your head and make you go cross-eyed, in the most sophisticated way!

Central Business District: 221 Camp Street; (504) 553 9550

www.ihhotel.com

The Davenportini at On Trois: Here’s mud in your eye! This smooth yet tangy swirl of ice cold Grey Goose vodka, Limoncello, and a dash of pomegranate juice served up martini-style is inspired by Ritz Carlton-based, horn playing crooner Jeremy Davenport. Add a side of swinging live jazz and a dash of elegance and… I’ll have another one please!

On Trois is located on the third floor lobby level at The Ritz Carlton.

Central Business District: 921 Canal Street; (504) 524-1331

www.ritzcarlton.com

A Feast for the Ears

Frenchmen Street: Head over to this little area on the edge of the French Quarter for some of the best music in town. Notable clubs include The Spotted Cat, d.b.a. and Snug Harbor. Best of all, most places don’t charge a cover, the beer is cheap and you can get up and dance if the spirit moves you - remember when you could do that in New York?

Washboard Chaz Blues Trio: Gritty and soulful, Washboard Chaz lays it all out for you at his regular Saturday night gig at The Spotted Cat. He’s got the blues with a Cajun rhythm that will really ring your bell. www.washboardchaz.com

Sunpie Barnes: Harmonica playing hottie Sunpie can be found most Saturday nights playing his original swirl of Zydeco, Caribbean and blues tunes at the lively Dos Jefes Uptown Cigar Bar. I dare you to try to sit still when he fires up the accordion! www.myspace.com/sunpiebarnes

George French: Kick-off the evening with classy cocktails and a side of jazz. Singing bassist George French is a New Orleans fixture and his band can be found at the On Trois Lounge at The Ritz Carlton at cocktail time most Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. www.georgefrenchband.com

Sassy Shopping

Magazine Street is a long stretch running from the Garden District to Uptown and is chock-a-block with hip and quirky boutiques, restaurants and more! Here are a few notable spots:

Trashy Diva: Sexy retro designs that are kind to the gal with an hourglass figure. They also have great shoes! Check out these fab kicks by Re-Mix.

Lower Garden District: 2048 Magazine St.; (504) 299-8777; www.trashydiva.com

House of Lounge: Celebrate your inner burlesque dancer with a treat from this boutique selling all things naughty & nice.

Lower Garden District: 2044 Magazine Street; (504) 671-8300; www.houseoflounge.com

Plum: “Cool stuff for stylish living” is the theme here. Great for hostess gifts and a fun little something for your pad back home.

Uptown: 5430 Magazine Street; (504) 897-3388

www.plumneworleans.com

Mélange Sterling Silver Shop: Replenish your supply of sterling silver tooth picks at this shop specializing in affordable silver antiques to jazz up your next dinner party.

Uptown: 5421 Magazine Street; (800) 513-3991

www.melangesterling.com

Uptown Costume & Dancewear: Admit it, you’ve always wanted to know what you’d look like in a Louis XIV wig. Here you can try it on for size and even wear it around town if you like - no one will blink an eye (see photo under “The Characters”, below).

Uptown: 4326 Magazine St; (504) 895-7969

The Characters

"I dust a bit...in addition, I am at the moment writing a lengthy indictment against our century. When my brain begins to reel from my literary labors, I make an occasional cheese dip."

~ Ignatius J. Reilly in Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole (see photo of his statue, found on Canal St. on the edge of the French Quarter, below).

Maybe we’re cray-zay! Like New York, New Orleans embraces and celebrates its eccentrics and I look forward to this as much as I anticipate the food and music. I was not disappointed! I was regaled with tales of a roving band of shoplifting transvestites that had been causing a problem for the shops on Magazine Street. I spied twin gray-bearded bald guys in black t-shirts and kilts checking out some blues music in the French Quarter. It wasn't even Mardi Gras!  Here’s a few more:

Check out this guy in the wig and brocade jacket having a po-boy at Domilise’s. We saw him a few hours earlier shopping at Uptown Costume & Dancewear.

This guy showed up at Dos Jefes Uptown Cigar Bar in a full-on Saints football uniform (minus the helmet, so maybe he wasn't that crazy).

This lady to the right was wearing a dramatic hat for her dinner in the bar at August.

Getting There

Jet Blue, Delta and Continental all offer non-stop flights from the New York metro area to the Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport.

You know you’re gonna have a good time in a place that names its airport after Satchmo!

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly except for - The International House Hotel & loa Lounge - courtesy of simoneink, llc; salumi platter - courtesy of Cochon Butcher; Restaurant August, courtesy of simoneink, llc; Washboard Chaz, courtesy of the artist; Sunpie Barnes - courtesy of the artist; George French - courtesy of the artist)

Now on Sheckys.com: Drinking with the Stars: Throw an Oscar Party!

See my latest article on Sheckys.com!

Drinking with the Stars: Throw an Oscar Party!

 “What would the red carpet be without snarky commentary? Host an Oscar party for your own A-list crowd."

See my latest article on Sheckys.com: "Cheese, Glorious Cheese: Where to Get Fondue in NYC"

See my latest article on Sheckys.com!

"Cheese, Glorious Cheese: Where to Get Fondue in NYC"

"Because what other group activity involving flame, pokers, bonding, and hot liquid can you do in public?"

Bites: Christmas in NYC; The Best Coffee in the World; Singer-Songwriter Leslie Mendelson

Happy Holidays to one and all!

See my latest article on Sheckys.com!  Home for the Holidays:  Christmas in NYC

“Hark! No matter what your religion, Christmas can be a time for Chinese food and a movie—or more traditional wassailing fare—at these festive places open on Christmas Eve and even Christmas Day.”

Cheese of the Week: Califon Tomme – from New Joisey!

A semi-firm, tangy mixed raw cow and sheep’s milk cheese from Valley Shepherd Creamery in Morris County, New Jersey.  A perfect melting cheese, enjoy it broiled over thick slices of juicy beefsteak tomatoes on crusty peasant bread.  I picked-up a wedge at the Union Square Market in NYC - look for yours at a fine food market near you.

Marie’s Little Luxuries:  Bluestone Coffee

 COFFEE!  I love the way it smells, I love the way it tastes, I love the little spring it gives to my step when I down a double-espresso.  Yes, I heart my coffee and my current bean obsession is with Bluestone Coffee found in Montclair, NJ (a.k.a. “The Upper West Side of New Jersey” located just 12 miles from Midtown).  Bluestone is a homey little café located in the Watchung Plaza section of town, a favorite hang for the locals and conveniently located near the bus stop for me!  The food there is pretty darn good.  But what really makes the place special is the coffee, roasted right there in the middle of the room.  It is strong, smooth, toasty and roasty, needing very little cream or sugar to make it zing!  Whenever I pass through town I make an effort to get a couple of bags of beans for the road – they just don’t make it that good on the Manhattan side of the river. 

BlueStone:  123 Watchung Ave 
Montclair, NJ 
(973)783-3523

Music:  Leslie Mendelson

 If you are a fan the groovy, mellow, catchy folk-soul of the 70s (think Carol King, Carly Simon) you will adore this up-and-coming New York City-based artist that I discovered quite by accident a few weeks ago playing live at The Canal Room.  I had a terrible cold, I was there to see another performer and low & behold, an opening act that turned out to be delightful surprise!  Keep an eye on this one, she’s just getting started.

www.myspace.com/lesliemendelson

Hello, It's me...with Potluck Entertaining on Sheckys.com

“After all, what experience of food can compare with eating something good made by someone you can hug?” – Marcella Hazan

Well, hello there. Yes hello, it’s been a while.  Life and its mysterious ways turned my attention towards other things over these past few months.  Now I’m back and so much has changed since we last spoke.  Whoosh!  We have a new president!  And the economy has decided to take a breather.  Which got me to thinking about what would be of interest to you in light of all these changes.  I’ve polled a few readers and here’s the way the wind seems to be blowing:

* Cheese is still an obsession: this will continue here at “Marie Fromage”.  How can it not?

* You want to know how to cook something nutritious & delicious:  and also easy breezy - this will also continue here.  I have gotten into the habit of making my own breakfast and lunch as a way to get healthy in the belly and the wallet.  But I will never, NEVER give up my daily double espresso from my favorite café!! I mean, let’s be reasonable.  Which brings me to…

 * “Marie’s Little Luxuries”: small but meaningful ways you can have adventure, decadence and deliciousness in your life and feed your senses without breaking the bank.  

* Support your local favorite restaurant:  Are you considered a regular at a food establishment near you?  Don’t stop going – restaurants need you right now!  If you can swing it, make room in your weekly budget and keep it in your life, it’s always nice to have someone else do the cooking once in a while.  And guess what?  You get two meals in one!  Restaurant portions are always too big to finish in one sitting, so bring home the rest to enjoy again later.  Yes, let’s bring sexy back to the doggie bag.  Um, well, it never WAS sexy or classy, but still...

* Support your local musicians (and their friends):  some of the best music around is right in your own backyard.  Did last Saturday night find you at home watching “Dancing with the Stars”? No!  You are cooler than that!  Get out of the house and go see that random band that “friended” you on MySpace.   

You might be pleasantly surprised.  Also check out CD Baby and Pandora Internet Radio for other handy ways to find out about & support indie artists. 

* Get away:  you have got to break the monotony and refresh your mind with little trips out of town.  Grand, sweeping European jaunts are nice and encouraged, but day trips count too!   I will continue to keep you abreast of my excursions.

 In Other News…

 

I got some ink!  Check out the piece I recently did for Sheckys.com:

 “Bring It! Throw a Potluck Party”

 

Photo Credit: Rika's Cheese and Mouse Clock by the students of The American School in Japan; Lemon Meringue Cupcake  by Mary Connolly; The Respect Sextet by Paul Miller

Bites: Play It in the Key of Building, Saint-André, Tomato Time

Cheese of the week:  Saint-André 

Yes, it's everywhere (at least where I live).  Yes, you can probably find it right now in the "gourmet" cheese section of your supermarket.  But just because it's everywhere doesn't mean it's not special and delish!   This is a French triple-cream cow's milk cheese made in the Brie tradition; only it's creamier and more butter-like. In the style of easy summer entertaining, here's a serving scenario: you've just laid out the surf & turf, the cold beer and crisp white wine are flowing. You're stuffed, but you also want to serve just a little something for dessert. Present a wedge of room temperature Saint-André with some fresh figs, pear slices and some super-thin ginger crisps - the perfect coda to a satisfying feast.

Play It in the Key of Building

They don't get much cooler than David Byrne.  With his latest project the musician, visual artist and bicycle enthusiast presents us with the opportunity to actually "play" an abandoned waiting hall located within The Battery Maritime Building, via an old church organ that's been rigged up to the walls, pipes and ceiling girders. Hit a few keys and the walls groan, pipes clank and girders sing, creating a delightfully eerie atmosphere within the crumbling space. But things this neat don't last forever - this is the last weekend so don't miss it!

CREATIVE TIME PRESENTS
Playing the Building: An Installation by David Byrne

The Battery Maritime Building

Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday: Noon - 6PM (Free)
LAST WEEKEND: Closing August 24, 2008
The Battery Maritime Building
10 South Street, New York, NY
Entrance on the South side, facing the Staten Island Ferry Terminal

Tomato Time

The tomatoes are here!  The tomatoes are here!  This is that special time of year when these ruby orbs of deliciousness are at their peak and in abundance.  Buy local – head over to the nearest farm stand and load up on the heirloom and Jersey varieties.  And because they are at the peak of perfection there’s very little that you need to do to enjoy full on tomato glory.  Here’s a suggestion that’s barely a recipe and more of a collection of high quality ingredients that create the perfect simple meal:  

Ingredients:

-       Crusty baguette, cut in half 

and then cut lengthwise

-       A few ripe tomatoes, sliced thin

-       1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced in half

-       Extra virgin olive oil (use the best quality you can find)

-       Sea salt (use Maldon if you can find it)

1)    Pre-heat grill (or use a ridged grill pan if indoors).

2)    Place the bread cut side down onto the hot grill and toast until browned, about 2 minutes at the most.  

3)    Rub half of a garlic clove over the toasted side of the bread while still warm.

4)    Arrange tomato slices on the bread, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and serve immediately.  Yum!

Photo Credits: Saint-André (Mary Connolly); Play the Building (David Byrne, Playing the Building, Battery Maritime Building, New York, NY, 2008); Tomato Time (Mary Connolly)