Marie Fromage

Bites: Wendy Wills, Kampuchea Noodle Bar, Quick Dinner Recipe

“Use all your senses, all the time. ... Take pains with the work; do it carefully. Relish the details. Enjoy your hunger. And remember why you’re there.” -- Paul Child

*** Shameless Plug Alert! *** Shameless Plug Alert! *** Wendy Wills

Welcome to “Shameless Plug Alert”, the section of my blog where I serve up a great big sloppy slice of love to my creative friends. This week’s artist: Wendy Wills.

Singer-songwriter Wendy Wills played an acoustic set, accompanied by guitarist Dave Leonard, at Cafe Gizzi on Saturday, September 22nd. She is gigging to promote her new CD and I just had to see Wendy do her thing. Her eponymous CD mingles classic acoustic guitar & gritty lap-steel sounds with straight-up rock & roll, and is recorded without too much fuss in a style that allows her melodies to shine through. Produced by veteran bass player and singer-songwriter Paul Page, she is backed by some of New York City’s best musicians, such as Lance Doss, Justin Jordan & Phil Cimino, among others. Standout tracks include the atmospheric “She Has a Chance” & “Lie in Your Bed”; the plaintive “I, I, I”; and a driving rocker “Big High Chair” that I will now christen the new Marie Fromage theme song. Big fist in the air, yeah!
Go to Wendy’s site on CDbaby.com or MySpace to learn more.

Kampuchea Noodle Bar

My friend Lemon Roosevelt has been raving about this new Cambodian spot on the Lower East Side for a few weeks now. Conroy & I met up with Lemon one recent cranky Sunday -- her campaign to convince us to try it out was relentless.

Lemon: Hi guys! Oh, wow, listen...we should really try out this Cambodian place near here, it’s amazing. Great sandwiches.

Conroy: Sure, maybe, what else is nearby?

Fromage: I need coffee.

Lemon: No, really, let's go, it’s cool and we'll have no problem getting a seat.

Fromage: Um, I don't know, Cambodian? On a Sunday? With a hangover? Coffee?

Lemon: Seriously, it’s so good.

Conroy: Well, sure, OK. Anybody got a light?

Fromage: ALL! RIGHT! Fine. They better have coffee.

Lemon: It’ll do the trick. Come on. Let’s go there now. Come on, it’s this way I think.

So we marched over there and, as promised, it was easy to get a seat.

I’m so glad we did, because the food here is superb and I forgot all about my coffee. We were seated on rustic stools at a long, dark wooden table. It’s a warm and open room, with windows flung out to the street on one side, a busy kitchen sizzling and hissing on the other side, and a classic 80’s soundtrack humming in the background. The menu was chock full of so many temping things to choose from, such as: meaty noodle soups and stews, small “share” plates and salads, grilled meats like tamarind baby back ribs, savory crepes, and many dishes on the menu starring delectable Berkshire Pork, the trendy meat of the moment. It took us a minute to get our bearings.


Lemon raved about the Num Pang (sandwiches) and they didn’t disappoint. I couldn’t make up my mind so I chose the three sandwich sampler and was served mini versions of sweet pulled oxtail, grilled eggplant and hoisin pork meatballs, each delivered on a crusty toasted baguette layered with pickled carrots, crunchy cucumber, cilantro and a smear of chili mayo. We also split a snappy pickle plate of watermelon rind, green mango, daikon, red cabbage & cucumber, along with a plate of luscious grilled sweet corn smothered with coconut chili mayo, chili powder, lime and coconut flakes. This is the kind of food that you eat with your hands, get all over your face and, as you chew, close your eyes to take in all of the zingy flavors. Yowza. Fully hooked, I came back with my friend Flea a few days later for a lively Saturday night dinner, and we munched on a plate of the Berkshire pork savory crepes that were wrapped in lettuce leaves and garnished with sprouts, fresh mint, crushed peanuts and a peppery dressing, with a side of that amazing, chili lime mayo-slathered grilled corn again.

Note to self - must come back and try everything on the menu.

Recipe of the week: Shrimp sautéed with summer corn & heirloom tomatoes

At the end of a long day, I just want to sit down, relax and have a wholesome, home-cooked meal. That scenario rarely happens with the frenetic life I lead. I just don’t have the time or energy to plan and cook something on a weeknight, but I crave it just the same. So this week I made a special effort to cook myself something simple and yummy that required very little effort.


Ingredients:
* 1/2 pound of shrimp, cleaned & steamed (you can pick this up at a
reputable fish market or the fish counter of a supermarket you trust)
* 1-2 plum tomatoes (or heirloom if available), seeds and pulp removed, roughly chopped
* 2-3 ears corn, kernels cut from the cob
* 1-2 cloves garlic, minced
* 1 Tablespoon flat leaf Italian parsley, cleaned and finely chopped
* Salt and pepper, to taste
* 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter (or good quality extra virgin olive oil)

1. Heat the butter and garlic in a pan until garlic turns slightly blondish in color.

2. Add the corn and cook for about a minute.

3. Add the tomato and shrimp and cook for another minute or so. Add salt and black pepper to taste.

4. Add fresh parsley and toss. Serve immediately, with a wedge of lemon.

Bites: Romance & Cigarettes, Slaid Cleaves, Pickles, Breakfast Recipes

“Develop an interest in life as you see it; the people, things, literature, music -the world is so rich, simply throbbing with rich treasures, beautiful souls and interesting people. Forget yourself” – Henry Miller

Romance & Cigarettes

Did you know that James Gandolfini sings a little and does a nice soft shoe? In this film he stars as Nick Murder, a philandering Queens construction worker who is caught up with a trash-talking, too-hot-to-handle-pepper-pot (Kate Winslet) while his outraged wife (Susan Sarandon) seeks revenge with the help of her Elvis-obsessed brother (Christopher Walken). This is a wacky, quirky, wild and fun musical written & directed by John Turturro and features an A-list cast including Steve Buscemi, Mandy Moore, Mary-Louise Parker, Aida Turturro, Elaine Stritch, Eddie Izzard and Amy Sedaris. Worth the price of admission is the opening number when Nick, who has been banished from his home, sings out his pain and is joined by a chorus line of garbage men, telephone line workers and softball players. Also hilarious is Christopher Walken’s inspired MGM-style number, complete with a dancing cluster of New York’s Finest and diner waitresses. Elaine Stritch is another standout as Nick’s mother, who tears him a new one for stepping out on his wife. The film isn¹t perfect; some of the songs don’t work, and it takes an unexpected and out-of place dramatic turn. In any event, it’s good fun to see these actors let their hair down and have some fun, and you get the impression they were delighted to work on this project. Playing now at the Film Forum, 209 West Houston Street.

Slaid Cleaves

Austin-based singer & songwriter Slaid Cleaves played Joe’s Pub on September 13th, on tour to promote his new album “Unsung”. Appearing onstage with long-time wingman Michael O’Connor and just their acoustic guitars, the two conjured up beautiful, dusty Texas images such as a lone pickup truck heading down a rainy highway, crying in your beer, loneliness & thwarted dreams. Don’t get the impression that this was a depressing evening; Cleaves is full of humorous tales of his travels told in a plain-talking Texas drawl that makes you want to just grab another beer and settle in for a spell.

Is That a Pickle in Your Pocket, or...

Orchard Street was the site of the 7th Annual New York City International Pickle Day on Sunday the 16th, featuring live music and exhibits of pickle history & tradition. Best of all, free samples of tart and crunchy pickled everything was on offer from some of the city's best pickle masters, most notably Guss’ Pickles (their snappy new pickles are my all-time favorite), Rick’s Picks (for standout pickled green beans) and Brooklyn’s McClure’s Pickles. But what was up with the pickled salted plums -- double yuck! I don't remember who that vendor was, but are you people trying to kill us? Sheesh!

It's What's for Breakfast

A very busy bachelor friend of mine recently suggested I feature some microwave-friendly dishes that are “quick, nutritious and, that rarest commodity, delicious breakfast recipes”. I hear you. Shredded wheat? Eh. Energy bar? Bleh. But what do you do for a tasty hot breakfast on the run? I wake every morning determined to eat something satisfying and nutritious, but all too often run out of time, run out the door, down a double espresso as I walk along and grab a bialy from one of the coffee cart guys. Not good. Sometimes, though, I have a moment of clarity, plan ahead and make good breakfast meals in advance that can be reheated in the microwave.

Breakfast Sandwich
In the tradition of the Egg McMuffin but much more wholesome. Use this recipe as a starting point and be creative! It's a good idea to make a bunch at the same time, wrap up and freeze. Then you can just grab one out of the freezer and pop it in the microwave for approximately 3 minutes.

Ingredients:
* 1 English muffin, sliced and toasted
* 1 Large egg
* 1 Slice Canadian bacon
* 1 Tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese
* 1 Tablespoon tomato salsa
* Salt & pepper to taste
* Unsalted butter, to taste

1. Toast the English muffin & set aside (butter optional).

2. Take a slice of Canadian bacon from its package and allow to come to room temperature. Place on one slice of the toasted English muffin.

3. Grease with butter a small ramekin or other microwave-safe, English muffin-sized dish, such as a Pyrex measuring cup or coffee mug.

4. Add egg, pinch of salt & pepper and slightly scramble.

5. Place in microwave, cover with a paper towel and cook on High for 1 minute.

6. Stack on top of the Canadian bacon slice of English muffin.

7. Add the cheese.

8. Add the salsa and top with the other slice of English muffin. Enjoy!

Egg Casserole

Eggs work great in the microwave, so here's another quick morning recipe that is very satisfying.

Ingredients:
* 1 egg, beaten
* 1 tablespoon milk
* 1/8 - 1/4 cup cooked diced ham, cooked bacon or smoked turkey
* 1 dash Worcestershire sauce
* 1-2 tablespoons shredded Cheddar or Parmesan cheese
* 1/8 teaspoon Dijon mustard
* Pinch of salt
* Pinch of fresh cracked pepper

1. Combine all ingredients in a small microwave-safe bowl.

2. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, then poke a few small holes in the top to vent.

3. Cook on Medium High for approximately 4 minutes.

4. When timer goes off, let stand, covered, for 30 seconds to finish cooking.

Note: you can do steps 1 &2 the night before and refrigerate. In the morning just pop it in the microwave to cook.

Easy Apple Compote

This is another do-ahead recipe that has many uses and tastes yummy hot or cold. Serve it with crunchy granola. Top off a bowl of oatmeal with it (follow package instructions for quick microwave oatmeal). Add it to thick and creamy Greek yogurt. Or do it up Marie Fromage-style and serve it with a scoop of milky fresh ricotta cheese and toasted almonds.

Ingredients:
* 2-3 medium apples -- cored and sliced
* 1/4 cup raisins
* 1/8 cup water or apple juice
* 1/2 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
* 1 Tablespoon sugar (omit if using apple juice)
* 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
* 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1. In microwave-safe dish, combine all of the ingredients.

2. Cover the dish and cook on High for 5 minutes.

3. Remove from the microwave and allow to cool a bit before serving or chill overnight in the fridge.

Bacon

Sometimes you just have to have some meat but you don't want the mess. Bacon cooks-up cleanly and quickly in the microwave.

1. Prepare a microwave-safe plate with about 3-4 layers of paper towel.

2. Lay the slices of bacon on the plate.

3. Cover with and additional 2-3 layers of paper towel.

4. Cook on High for approximately 2-5 minutes. The cooking time will vary depending on how many slices you are preparing and I recommend doing this in two minute intervals. After the first two minutes see if the bacon is at your preferred consistency and proceed from there.

5. When the bacon has been cooked, remove from the microwave. Peel off of the paper towels and eat!

All of these recipes are built for speed. On the weekends, take time to cook up something special for someone you love!

"Keep Austin Weird"

[This is the expanded version of an article that originally appeared as a “guest post” on the blog GastroChic]

I spent a weekend in Austin, TX earlier this year, for no other reason than to visit friends and check out the scene. It had been several years since I’d been there, and I’d been hearing from these Austin friends just how alive it is with a burgeoning art, music and design scene.

What first brought me to Austin in the late 90’s was the South by Southwest Music Festival (SXSW), an annual music industry pow-wow that attracts big-wigs on down to unsigned indie artists. Everyone is there to rub shoulders, make connections, and hear some fantastic music. Ten years later, the festival has exploded, along with the size of Austin and the coolness of its culture. Many people who originally visited Austin as SXSW fans have permanently relocated to this fun city to take part in what is happening there.

So, with my friend the "Queen of the Rockaways" as my wing-gal, we flew down to The Lone Star State and made our home base the “South Congress” neighborhood of Austin. This area was once considered the seedy part of town, but with an anchor of hip-ness supplied by music bar The Continental Club. Creative types are always on the lookout for cheap rents that allow them to do their thing without too much financial stress; this neighborhood is an irresistible choice, with funky bungalows and retro shop designs providing the blank canvas. It is now considered the epicenter of Austin cool.

I stayed at the Hotel San Jose, a former motel-turned-brothel-turned-hip happening hot spot. I was in a "Grand Standard" room, which I referred to as "The Cell". I would describe it as high design with a whiff of retro 1950s (which is the theme all over Austin, sometimes with Mexican influences mixed in). It had a nice little outdoor terrace that allowed me to host a small cocktail gathering for my local friends. The decor was industrial chic, stark and modern, almost cold but softened with touches of luxury such as Frette sheets and towels, a very comfy bed, flat screen TV and a dock for the iPod. Breakfast-only room service is provided by Jo’s, located next door and the town's go-to spot for a turbo caffeine fix and fresh muffins. I found the hotel’s overall service to be very professional and a wonderful alternative to a generic hotel chain; I would definitely stay here again.

So much music, so little time! Our schedule was tight and we saw only a few bands, a Cabaret/Hedwig-type act at Ego's and a Texas-swing group at The Continental Club -- both ok but nothing memorable. I’m hoping to get back to Austin next year to check out the Austin City Limits Festival happening this weekend; it features 130 top acts, along with food from Austin’s hot restaurants and an art market with wares created by local artisans.

Food-wise, the bill of fare is varying degrees of TexMex for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a couple of notable exceptions. Plus excellent coffee! My favorite spots were:

* Uchi's. On the suggestion of my friend Chef K, bolstered by recommendations from several other locals, we had a fabulous meal here Saturday night. It was basically a cool sushi place with an
Asian-fusion menu. We sampled the Omakase tasting menu, which featured endless courses of hot and cold deliciousness, such as an Uchi shot of quail egg yolk and sea urchin submerged in sparkling wine, on down to panko fried green tomatoes and whatever else the chef feels like whipping up for you. It was as good as any place like it in NYC.
* Las Manitas. The best spot for breakfast in town and considered by many to be the soul of Austin. A fresh-fresh-fresh menu that seemed designed to provide a rescue from the margarita hangover acquired the night before. This was my 5th visit to the place and it always satisfies. This time around I had fresh squeezed watermelon juice and a plate of “Migas Con Queso”, a sort of cheese and salsa omelet with corn chips and a side of sweet plantains. They make their own tortillas here and you can watch the lady churn them out while waiting to get into the ladies room. I’ve heard rumors that this place might close due to re-development of the downtown area. Austin, don’t let that happen!

* Guero's Taco Bar. The TexMex here is fine, not amazing. Great people watching, hopping scene, and I loved the margaritas. We came here for a long lunch break from shopping the funky boutiques on South Congress (and afterwards I needed to head back to my hotel to take a nap). Did I mention the great margaritas? We shared tortilla chips with assorted hot sauces for dipping, Queso (basically a big bowl of molten cheese with salsa mixed-in -- Marie Fromage heaven!), and a quesadilla platter with chorizo. Oh yeah, and a margarita or three called "The Purest", which was a mix of Patron Silver tequila, Cointreau and fresh squeezed lime juice. My friends enjoyed a local beverage specialty that was basically Bloody Mary mix with lime juice and Tecate beer. Very refreshing!

* Home Slice, Queen of Pies. Another excellent suggestion from Chef K. He said it's almost as good as New York pies, as owners Jen and Joseph Strickland learned their trade from an NYC pizza master. I have to say it was pretty darn good and we dined on a luscious pie made with fried eggplant. Our waitress also made some good wine recommendations to go with it and was surprisingly knowledgeable on the subject.

Getting There

Jet Blue flies non-stop from JFK to Austin three times a day. I also recommend a rental car, as Austin is a bit spread out and radio taxis can take forever to arrive, which is frustrating when you are trying to hit all the hot spots. The airport is located approximately 20 minutes from downtown Austin.

Bites: Cheese Updates, Anoushka Shankar & Karsh Kale, Cape Cod, with Recipe

“Life itself is the proper binge.” – Julia Child

Cheese Updates

I’m glad to know that others share my cheese obsession, and thank you for your two cents! Here are a few cheesy recommendations from Marie Fromage readers:

“Sicilian Piacentino, the lovely and delicious sheep’s milk cheese scented with saffron and studded with black peppercorns.”

“Butlers Blacksticks Blue. Once you have this blue you’ll NEVER want another!”

“I am going through a phase where all I want to eat are the tomatoes from my community garden, basil from the same, and Burrata (mozzarella filled with cream) cheese.
Drizzle with olive oil and salt. Yum.”

“Mmmm... port wine cheese. Big hit in the 70s, but I still eat it! Citarella makes their own - pretty good, esp. for homemade cheese balls covered in almonds.”

When I return from my vacation (see below) I’m going to go cheese-mad and hit the stores in search of these delectable delights.

Is there a cheese you can’t get enough of? Got a cheesy recipe that makes the angels sing? Send me an email and let me know!

Anoushka Shankar & Karsh Kale

Classical sitar player Anoushka Shankar, along with renown tabla player and electronica artist Karsh Kale, headlined Global Rhythm Magazine’s 15th anniversary party at the Highline Ballroom on August 29th. The pair are currently on tour to promote their new album, "Breathing Under Water”, a collaboration that pushes the boundaries of traditional Indian music to create a vibrant and modern musical experience. The live show was on fire and the crowd couldn’t stop swaying to the swirling rhythms. I look forward to seeing more from this duo.

Chatham, MA, with Recipe

Fire up the James Taylor Greatest Hits CD! I’m up at The Cape for my annual end-of-summer escape. I prefer to come at the tail-end of the summer season for several reasons: the water’s warm, the weather is spectacular, and my posse and I have the beach to ourselves.

There is no scene here, nothing flashy. Oh wait, not true, there IS a scene. It’s here:

And behold the wind-swept preppy scene of my celebratory arrival lunch at the luxurious
Outer Bar at The Wequassett Resort, perched on Pleasant Bay.

Aside from sitting on the beach and watching the waves, I amuse myself by checking out local restaurants and gourmet shops, and playing private chef for the captive audience that’s staying with me, with fish being the order of the day. It can’t get any fresher here – the Nickerson Fish Market at The Chatham Fish Pier is located near the end of Main Street, where you can buy fish caught just hours earlier. There are many other places to get a seafood fix...Several times during my stay, I head over to The Chatham Squire on Main Street to lunch on a bowl of steamers with served drawn butter and a pint of cold beer. If you like your seafood battered & fried, swing by what the locals refer to as “Scream & Moan” (um, I mean, Kream ‘N’ Kone, on Route 28 in West Chatham) for fried food that’s never greasy. New on the scene this year is Marine Cuisine, a small café attached to the Chatham Fish & Lobster shop on Route 28, so you know the seafood they serve up is quiveringly fresh.

The Impudent Oyster is an excellent, more dressy establishment featuring a wide variety of seafood entrees. However, my new favorite is Nantucket Wild Gourmet & Smokehouse. It is here that you will find some of the most delectable and silky cold-smoked wild King Salmon to-go, along with smoked Bluefish, Haddock and Black Cod, with the emphasis on being wild and pure – and kosher! Owner Chef Peter hand filets, cures and smokes everything himself, along with making fresh Irish Brown Bread and scones every morning. He is so committed to the quality of his product, he tells me that he sometimes sleeps on the floor near the smoker, just to make sure the fire doesn’t get too crazy and the smoke level is just right. That’s love folks, and it shows.

However, the very best, freshest fish around is the kind that is caught by hand. The Bluefish are running right now -- so much so that you can see patches of water churning from a 1/4 mile out from the shore. The fisherman are having a field day, with this guy pictured here among the most obsessed.

He’s had a great run lately and I convinced him to keep a recent catch to cook-up for dinner. Bluefish, as with most fish, is best prepared simply. In this recipe I serve it broiled with herb butter and a side of stuffed broiled tomatoes and fresh garlic bread.

Broiled Lemon-Thyme Bluefish with Grilled Garlic Toast and Stuffed Tomatoes
Recipe Courtesy Mary Connolly
Yield: 4 Servings

For the Fish:
- Four 8 oz Bluefish filets, skin and bones removed
- ½ Stick of unsalted butter, room temperature
- 1-2 Cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
- Juice of half a lemon
- Fresh thyme, removed from stem
- Kosher Salt
- Freshly ground black pepper

For the Tomatoes:
- 6 Plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
- 1 C. Plain bread crumbs
- 1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 Tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (and since you’ll have thyme on hand, use that)
- 1 Tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan or Romano
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper

For the Grilled Bread
- 1 French baguette or other crusty bread, cut in half horizontally & then halved lengthwise
- 1 Stick of unsalted butter, room temperature
- 2-3 Cloves of garlic, peeled and minced.
-----------------------------------------------
First, Make the Grilled Bread:

1. Combine the softened butter and minced garlic in a bowl and set aside.

2. Over a grill, toast the bread on both sides until lightly charred.

3. While the bread is still warm, spread the garlic-butter mixture on the bread. Sprinkle with Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper.

4. Keep warm and slice when ready to serve.

Then, Make the Tomatoes:

1. Position oven rack in the upper part of the oven and preheat the broiler.

2. Scoop out the pulp and seeds from the tomatoes and allow to drain on paper towels for about 5 minutes.

3. Combine breadcrumbs, extra-virgin olive oil, grated Parmesan, chopped herbs, salt & pepper in a bowl.

4. Season the hollows of the tomatoes with the salt and pepper and fill with the breadcrumb mixture.

5. Place the tomato halves on a cookie sheet, crumb-side up, & drizzle with olive oil. Broil until hot and the tops begin to brown, about 6-8 minutes.

6. And Marie Fromage says, for an extra-special treat top with more grated cheese (!!) and broil until cheese is melted and lightly browned, about 1 minute. Serve 2-3 halves per person.

Finally, Make the Fish:

1. Arrange oven rack to approximately 4 inches from the heat and preheat broiler.

2. In a bowl, combine the softened butter, lemon juice, minced garlic, thyme, salt & pepper.

3. Arrange the fish fillets on a cookie sheet and spread butter mixture over the tops.

4. Broil the fillets for approximately 6 minutes or until just cooked through. Be sure to keep your eye on it because this happens quickly. Serve immediately.

Getting Here

No matter how you slice it, travel time takes a solid 5 hours from Manhattan. Whether you fly to Boston and take a bus, drive North on Route 95, or take a bus from Port Authority to Hyannis, it’s all the same. But if you are really in a rush and dying to fire-up your Cessna, there’s a small airport right in town, for your convenience.

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