Marie Fromage

Bites: Straight Up Vampire, Brittle Love with Recipe

* Did you know that the love of cheese is called "turophilia"?

Straight Up Vampire, a Gothic Political Romance (or The History of Vampires in Colonial Pennsylvania as Performed to the Music of Paula Abdul)

Ah yes, I love New York and the creative souls who lurk -- I mean, live -- here. There are two reasons why I went to see this thing: 1) My friend was playing sax in the band, and 2) What? A show about colonial people and vampires in Pennsylvania set to Paula Abdul music? How are they going to handle “Forever Your Girl”? My friend said that the actors all sang on key; it’s kind of a staged reading; and it’s not too long, so I figured, ” what the heck, how bad can it be?”

It was actually hilarious.

A synopsis taken from a related web site sums it up nicely: “It’s 1763 and there are vampires in Philadelphia. Paula Abdul Blackwood is a beautiful young Quaker girl being forced into marriage with the wheelwright’s son. Jack Sheridan, a politically idealistic young vampire, is the man she loves. Everywhere there is dissent. Fractious parties debate the future of the colony. MC Skat Kat and Benjamin Franklin vie for power in the Assembly.”

The show made its debut on Halloween 2007 somewhere in Brooklyn and was resurrected for a special Valentine’s Day run here in Manhattan at The Bowery Poetry Club. The star of the show was rocker Corn Mo, bringing a bit of Jack Black and Meatloaf to the role of Benjamin Franklin. By the size of the packed house I predict the show will rise again, perhaps as an Independence Day special? Whatever the occasion, it’s destined to be a local cult favorite.

Brittle Love, with Recipe

Last Valentine’s Day, Gastro Chic published a recipe for peanut brittle with a chocolate heart painted on it, with instructions to “ignore your peanut brittle heart until it turns cold and hard.” Then “To serve, smash the heart into pieces with a mallet. Enjoy!”

Since I, too, wasn’t feeling the love that day, I commented that after smashing the peanut brittle heart, shards of it should be thrown from the rooftops of tall Manhattan skyscrapers. OR, dip the shards in the finest chocolate, dust with a bit of fine French gray sea salt, and send it to those you want to seduce. Idea! Brittle Love was born.

I started giving it to friends. I’ve been giving it as hostess gifts. Thank you gifts. A gift for every occasion. I bring it to the office and it doesn’t last two minutes. Arthur, the doorman at my friend Zero’s apartment building, threatened to eat the next bag I deliver for Zero instead of bringing it up (“you must tell that woman not to leave that delicious peanut brittle with me. I will not be held responsible!”). Folks are crazy for it. They can’t stop eating it. It’s a hit!

I’ve also noticed that the brittle is a reliable measure of the depth of a man’s interest in me. At some point during the early stages of courting, I will whip up a batch and give it to him as a surprise. Reactions have been very telling. Some examples:

* Man 1: “Marie! Wow, that peanut brittle you sent me was dee-lish! You are such a sweetie! Thank you sooo much, It’s my favorite!”

Note to self: Oh, he’s so sweet and fun and handsome. Too bad for me he’s gay. He’s such a great friend. Next!


* Man 2: “Hi Marie, I just got the brittle. Thank you, it’s delicious.”

Two weeks later...

Man 2: “You know, to be honest, I thought it was too salty. And I shared it with some people in my office and they also said it was too salty. I hope you don’t mind me telling you.”

Note to self: Ugh. Ungrateful creep. Next!


* Man 3: “Hi Marie, just received the most delicious peanut brittle ever!! Thank you! I shared some with the office staff and they loved it.”

Note to Self: My my! That’s what I like to hear! Too bad he lives really really far away. Sadly, next!

As we speak, I am whipping-up a batch of Brittle Love to bestow upon my current squeeze and some lucky friends. Hope springs eternal! Stay tuned.

Brittle Love

Adapted from Gastro Chic

2/3 cups water
2 cups sugar
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
1/3 cup light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 Tablespoon sea salt, fine grind
12 oz. can of high quality salted, skinless peanuts (I like New York’s own Bazzini Nuts)
4-6 oz. excellent quality semisweet chocolate (Ghirardelli works great for this and is widely available)
Maldon Sea salt

* Special Equipment:
- Candy thermometer
- Parchment paper or Silpat sheets

1) Line two sheet pans with parchment paper or a Silpat sheet and set aside.

2) Combine water, sugar, butter and corn syrup in a large heavy bottomed saucepan. Place over high heat and stir until combined and butter and sugar have dissolved.

3) Combine the baking soda and salt in a small bowl and set aside.

4) When butter has melted, reduce the heat and attach the candy thermometer about halfway into the mixture and the tip is not touching the bottom of the pan. Allow the mixture to simmer until it becomes browned, bubbling and foamy and the temperature reads 295 degrees (around “soft crack” stage). This will take about 20 minutes, with the temperature rising quickly in the last couple of minutes, so don’t stray too far from the pot.

5) Reduce the heat, add the baking soda and salt, and combine with the melted sugar mixture (it will foam up a bit more).

6) Working quickly, remove from heat and add the peanuts, stir to combine. Pour onto a lined sheet pan and using a large spatula spread the brittle into a thin layer (as much to the edges of the pan as possible). Allow to cool completely.

7) Once the brittle has cooled, break into random shards using your hands and set aside.

8) In a microwave-safe bowl, break up the chocolate into pieces and place in the microwave on high for about a minute. Stir and microwave again for about another minute until it is completely melted.

9) Dip the ends of the brittle shards into the chocolate and place onto a parchment paper or Silpat-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with a bit of flakey sea salt and allow the chocolate to set (you may also place the pan in the fridge for five minutes or so to help the chocolate harden).

10) Once the chocolate has hardened you may:
a. Eat some
b. Throw it at someone
c. Package it up nicely and show some Brittle Love!

Bites: Cheese of the Week; Chocolate & Bacon; Jimmy’s No. 43, Dovetail

Cheese of the Week:

Budget-conscious truffle lovers rejoice! There’s a new cheese in town called “Truffle Tremor”, brought to us by Cypress Grove, a Northern California-based maker of a variety of exceptional artisanal goat cheeses (you are probably familiar with their Humboldt Fog). Intoxicatingly earthy, tangy, creamy-and highly addictive, it made my senses sing! Now you can indulge your truffle love without breaking the bank. A new favorite.

Another reason to rejoice: Mo’s Bacon Bar

Someone brought this into the office the other day, laid it out on a table and we all crowded around, daring each other to try it. You know how weirdly good bacon dipped in syrup tastes? The brilliant folks over at Vosges Chocolates came up with this insanely strange and delicious bar of velvety milk chocolate mixed with bits of Applewood bacon and Alder wood-smoked salt. Try it, I dare you. It won’t kill you and in fact, it may open you up to a whole new world of taste possibilities!

Jimmy’s No. 43

I first discovered Jimmy’s No. 43 by accident. My friend Ellen was in town and she suggested we check out a ukulele concert being held in the tucked-away party room here (yes, there is an underground ukulele scene in New York. Who knew?). “What is this place and why am I here?” I wondered aloud as we descended the steps into the bar and walked back into the performance space. Needless to say, the ukulele scene was not for me and we fled the concert, but I was curious about this place: a cozy subterranean warren of rooms with gothic archways, brick-lined vaulted ceiling and walls ringed with beer casks and antlers. Hmm, I must investigate.

Turns out this is an under-the-radar and very cool gastro-pub owned by restaurateur Jimmy Carbone, who converted what was once a Ukrainian social hall into a relaxed and inviting urban rathskeller. The focus here is the beer: a large selection of local and imported craft ales, lagers, pilsners and stouts. He recruited Chef Philip Kirschen-Clark away from WD-50 to present a straightforward and creative greenmarket-driven menu.

Recent eats I’ve enjoyed there recently have included a creamy and decadent squash soup drizzled with pumpkin oil and sprinkled with toasted pepitas and pumpernickel croutons; “baked fondue”, a bubbling crock of cheese served up with toasted homemade bread; a cozy version of shepherd’s pie comprised of beef ragu topped with Hoppin' John's stone-ground grits; skillet-fried beer sausages; a plate of charcuterie and a board featuring cheeses of the day supplied by Saxelby Cheesemongers. A memorable dessert was a tangy and refreshing banana granita. My only complaint was that I found their cassoulet (my favorite winter dish) thin and unsatisfying, and there is no burger on the menu! Maybe that’s a little too pedestrian for what they are trying to do here, but I bet they’d have an interesting take on this traditional beer food and it would be a hit.

Remember that tucked away performance space I’d mentioned? Things at Jimmy’s go above and beyond the gastro-pub. Known as the “No. 43 Stage”, there are regular beer tastings hosted by the New York City Degustation Advisory Team (next event: a bacon, beer & cheese pairing on Feb 19), film screenings, live music, comedy and sometimes even a bit of burlesque!

So, worth going back? Definitely, over and over again. A very lively, warm and friendly place that might even be my new regular hangout!
Jimmy’s No. 43: 43 E 7th St, between 2nd & 3rd Avenues

Dovetail

I can now exhale. You may recall my recent rant against BLT Market (see my post on Jan 21st), detailing my growing concern about the overt brand-building at fine restaurants everywhere and overall plastic-ness of it all. Not all is lost! Enter Dovetail, a brand new culinary gem on the Upper West Side.

Gastro Chic gathered the troops and we headed over there one recent Friday evening. My first impression was that they are aiming for subtlety at Dovetail: I missed the entrance at first pass and once inside, everything is muted, beige and dimly lit. A little bit like a corporate executive dining room, which made me leery. Would the food be bland too? My fears were unwarranted and I think I get it: I believe the subtlety in design is aimed to put your focus on the food, exactly where it should be.

Chef-Owner John Fraser (French Laundry, Taillevent, Snack Taverna, Compass) presents a seasonal market-driven menu, just like everybody else these days, but with a refreshing perspective. For example, the venison here is succulent and served with chestnuts, cabbage and marshmallows, and it works. There was a dish of decadent, tender gnocchi that were sautéed and served with veal short ribs, foie gras butter and prunes. I loved the wonderfully light and flavorful rabbit terrine with kumquats and toasted brioche. The best entrée of the night was the roasted sirloin and beef cheek “lasagna”, which was stacked with trumpet mushrooms and basil. However the dish that resonated most with me was the crazy-good banana brioche bread pudding topped with a thin bacon-flecked wafer. Bacon: it’s in everything now, and I’m not complaining!

Worth going back? Oh yes. Yep. I would like to have a romantic dinner here. I would like to come back with a good friend and have a decadent evening here. I would be willing to spend ten bucks or more for a
cross-town cab through the park to come here, and that says it all!
Dovetail: 103 W. 77th St., near Columbus Avenue
(photos courtesy of Gastro Chic)