Cheese By Hand
Well folks, my cheese obsession has reached new heights. I have learned how to MAKE MY OWN CHEESE! You heard right – in the comfort of my New York City apartment’s toy kitchen, I have been turning out batches of fresh, luscious ricotta and meltingly tender mozzarella. And I don’t possess any special cheesy powers! I came across Ricki’s Cheese Making kit on a recent visit to Murray’s Cheese shop. I thought it would be a fun weekend project and discovered that, in under an hour, I could make my own curds. It’s pretty easy, but I’ll admit it took a little trial-and-error to get it right. For the first try, my pal Zero and I attempted to make mozzarella and ended-up with a small chewy knot of a cheese-like substance. Edible, but not exactly what we had in mind. Turns out we were using the wrong type of milk (avoid the ubiquitous “ultra pasteurized” variety. Even with organic brands, if you buy it in any major grocery store it’s ultra pasteurized). I had beautiful results with Sky Top Farms whole milk that is lightly pasteurized and not homogenized; there’s even a layer of cream at the top of the milk jug for added lushness (available at Whole Foods). It was delish and the homemade mozzarella of my dreams!
Benoit
Benoit is the newest restaurant from chef Alain Ducasse, a replica of the famous 1912 bistro of the same name in Paris, now in the old La Côte Basque space. It appears to attract some of the old La Côte Basque crowd, a classy mix of monied New Yorkers ranging in age from sleek young things to those who can recall the days when Jackie O would dine in their midst. In anticipation of satisfying the old LCB ghosts, they carried over a recipe from the famed LCB chef, Jean-Jacques Rachou (“Cassoulet de J.J. Rachou”). And it was reported in the NY Times today that J.J. Rachou is actually still working there, making the quenelles de brochet and cassoulet himself, which is very exciting!
They are doing it up old-school French, which seems many people are still craving. But don’t feel as if you can’t join the party; prices for this feast are very reasonable. Here you can tuck in to expertly rendered classics - escargot, pan roasted garlic and rosemary chicken for two, pâté en croûte, pike quenelles de brochet, lamb chops, cassoulet, duck à l’orange, onion soup gratinée, potatoes gratin Dauphinois, chocolate soufflé…you get the picture. You can even get veal tongue with all the fixings when you get that special craving!
Worth going back? Oui, for a classy-yet-casual breakfast, lunch and dinner that’s a homage to culinary temples of the past without seeming stuffy. It will delight you, your boss, your gay best friend, and your wealthy great aunt who longs for her flambéed La Côte Basque ruby and emerald occasions.
Benoit: 60 W. 55th St. bet. 5th & 6th Aves. (Midtown West): 646-943-7373
Pigalle
Midtown in the 40s is an area I generally try to avoid, a tourist and traffic-choked section with which I’m on close, intimate terms because I lived there for 12 years (thank heavens I moved!) But it IS the theater district, so when visiting friends and family are looking for a good place to eat in the neighborhood, I try to steer them away from the tourist traps and point them towards the good spots. Pigalle usually fits the bill as a reasonably priced spot that serves surprisingly yummy, authentic and satisfying French brasserie fare such as country pate, Quiche Lorraine, mussels mariniere, beef bourguignon, croque monsieur, and my all-time favorite silky French treat, crème brulee. The only real drawback is the largely tourist clientele, which makes it deeply uncool for most New Yorkers. But there is usually room at the bar where you can sit and direct your gaze towards the bottles of absinthe lining the shelves, flirt with the handsome bartender and pretend you’re in Paris. Worth going back? Absolutely, if I am meeting people catching a show in the area and we can’t get a reservation at Joe Allen.
Pigalle: 790 Eighth Ave. at W. 48th St. (Hell’s Kitchen); 212-489-2233
Paul Simon – Still Relevant After All These Years
Paul Simon is an artist whose work I’ve always enjoyed but have taken for granted. He always seemed to be crooning in the background, providing a running soundtrack for a couple of generations, and giving us music that we’ve allowed into our lives and taken to our hearts…and yet, we sort-of filed it away on oldies or “Lite FM” radio. He recently completed a month-long residency at BAM that set that right and made us focus on Paul Simon, the prolific author of brilliantly crafted pop songs. His work was presented in separate installments in a collection called “Love in Hard Times: The Music of Paul Simon”, an event which became more than just a solo concert by allowing other artists to reinterpret his songs in their own style. The first series was “Songs from The Capeman”; the second installment was “Under African Skies” and featured music from Graceland and The Rhythm of the Saints; and the final installment was “American Tunes”, one I was fortunate enough to witness.
The sold-out show brought together an eclectic group of artists who performed some of Simon’s most beloved songs from the 60’s and 70’s. There were moments where we stood up and sang along, followed by more pointed moments of chills-inducing beauty.
The Roches opened the show with “American Tune” and their tight, giddy harmonies soared with “Cecilia”. Paul Simon himself followed with laid-back versions of “50 Ways to Leave Your Lover” and “Mrs. Robinson”. Local Brooklyn-based group Grizzly Bear put an atmospheric, moody and modern spin on “Graceland” and “Mother & Child Reunion”. Olu Dara filtered “Slip Sliding Away” and “ Still Crazy After All These Years” through his soulful blues with a West African lilt. The big surprise of the evening was Josh Groban, a singer who I’d written-off as too sentimental and schmaltzy. Yet he was the perfect choice to sing “Bridge Over Troubled Water” with Simon on harmonies, and there was not a dry eye in the house (he started his set with “America”, followed by “Silent Eyes”). Amos Lee was one of the standout performers of the evening, singing “Peace Like a River”, “Homeward Bound” and “Nobody” with straightforward, gritty acoustic soul. Gillian Welch stole the show with shimmering, Appalachian-inflected blue grass versions of “Duncan”, “The Boxer” and “Sounds of Silence” with Simon joining on harmonies. Simon closed the show with “ Me & Julio”, “Train in the Distance”, “Only Living Boy in New York” (with The Roches on backing vocals) and put a lid on it all with a rousing version of “Late in the Evening”.
In my mind, this evening was proof that Paul Simon is right up there with the rest of the towering songwriters in the great American 20th century songbook.
As someone who rarely gets to go out in NYC anymore, I can tell you frankly that I read your blog posts like a starving person, with my tongue hanging out and drooling, as much for the food and wine as for the memory of freedom and fun in urban life. This Paul Simon concert event in particular sounds like a dream. I hope they put out a recording of it so I can live even more vicarously through it!!! Great job with your writing dear. You deserve to be paid for this! xox J
Posted by: JC | May 23, 2008 at 06:00 PM