Marie Fromage

Hoboken Mutzfest 2014

I live in Manhattan, and those who dwell here consider it to be the center of the universe, where the best of the best is readily available, including cheese. Little did I realize that I was about to be schooled in the ways of the mutz by a bunch of Italian American delis just across the river in New Jersey.

“Mutz” – that’s mozzarella to you and me. But in Hoboken they call it “mutz” and it was the focus of a boisterous celebration and competition at the Elk’s Club on Sunday January 26, organized by the Hoboken Family Alliance to benefit several local charities.

 Over 800 people turned out to sample the mutz making expertise of six of Hoboken’s finest Italian delis. 

M&P Biancamano, Losurdo Brother’s Deli, Vito’s Deli, Fran’s Deli, Gigi’s Rosticeria and Littletown, NJ presented abundant samples of their mutz to those lucky enough to attend and eat. And eat. And eat.

 

 

There was mutz on a sandwich, mutz with dried meats, mutz with jalapenos, mutz with olives and even mutz dipped in a chocolate fountain (yes indeed and not bad). Mutz quality ranged from excellent to absolutely divine. 

 

The event was sponsored by Polly-O, which supplied the raw curds. Yes, Polly-O of the supermarket cheese fame. Apparently they have some of the finest raw curd in the region for mutz making. Who knew?

Delis competed for the People’s Choice award as well as the Critic’s Choice award. Attendees were given a voting card and token and were instructed to cast their ballot after completing the tour of the mutz.

The winners…

 * M&P Biancamano  - won best mutz in the People’s Choice category as well as best sandwich in the Critic’s Choice category.

 * Vito’s Deli – best mutz in the Critic’s Choice category. 

Vito’s mutz was truly as good as they say – tender, silky and milky with just the right amount of brine. And I really liked M&B Biancamano’s mutz on a sandwich (even the bread was amazing).

But there were two legendary Hoboken delis that did not compete – Fiore's House Of Quality and Lisa’s. Fiore’s, in particular, is famous for a gigantic roast beef, brown gravy and mutz sandwich reportedly so good that it makes people willing to stand on line in the rain just to have it.

I may have to cross the river again just to find out.  

Hoboken Mutzfest: www.mutzfest.com

Curd Nerd Salad

Summer is officially here!  I have created a salad featuring cheese curds and roasted tomatoes that is easy to toss together and will make you the talk of the next cookout. 

Cheese curds from Hillcrest Dairy, Moravia, NY. Purchased at Saxelby Cheesemongers

This recipe is pretty straightforward and will require just a little oven operation and a bit sourcing for great ingredients. 

Curd Nerd Salad

Ingredients: 

2 cups of Cheese Curds* (or if you can't find curds use Bocconcini mozzarella balls)

2 cups Roasted Grape Tomatoes

1 Tbs. Fresh Basil, Julienned

2 Tbs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 Tbs. Balsamic Vinegar

Kosher (or Sea) Salt and Fresh Cracked Black Pepper, to taste

The How-To:

1)  Pre-heat oven to 400°(oh come on now, you probably have air conditioning in your house. You will be fine!).

2)  Line a baking sheet with foil.

3)  Wash the grape tomatoes, drain and add to a medium sized mixing bowl (tomatoes will still be a little wet).  Scatter a healthy pinch of salt over the tomatoes and toss to coat.

4)  Pour tomatoes onto the baking sheet, place in the oven and roast until tomatoes are a little scorched, collapsed and wrinkled up a bit - about 45 minutes.

5)  While tomatoes are roasting, julienne the basil leaves and set aside.

6) Remove tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

7) Use a large bowl: add roasted tomatoes, cheese curds and sliced fresh basil and toss together until combined.  

8)  Add the extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar and toss to combine. 

9) Add salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste and - you guessed it - toss to combine.  

10) Allow everything to just mingle together for about an hour before serving.

Please note: 

a) All ingredients should be room temperature when this salad is put together.

b) The roasted grape tomatoes may be made the night before & refrigerated until ready to use (tomatoes made this way are also a delicious, slightly sweet and low calorie add-on to sandwiches, omelets, as a simple side dish to chicken or fish - the possibilities are endless).

* A word about Cheese Curds: 

Cheese curds are basically what cheddar cheese looks like before they are pressed together and aged. They are a delight as they are, with a mild, milky taste and springy, squeeky mozzarella-like texture if you eat them fresh.  Sadly they are not easy to find and if you live outside of Wisconsin or Québec you probably never have had the pleasure of this taste experience. HOWEVER, if you live in or near New York City you are in luck! Try finding them at Saxelby Cheesemongers or Beecher's. 

 

 

The Cheesemonger Invitational

What is it about cheese? What is it about that stinky substance with all kinds of weird textures, shapes and sizes that takes hold of the palate and possesses the soul?  Cheese obsession was as the front of my mind as I gazed upon the crowd at the 3^rd Annual Cheesemonger Invitational on June 23, held at the Larkin specialty food importer’s warehouse in Long Island City.

Larkin general manager and curd-obsessed ball of energy Adam Moskowitz, who also serves as the event’s MC, started the Cheesemonger Invitational in 2010.

CMI Founder Adam Moskowitz
(photo: Cheesemongerinvitational.com)

Over 100 star cheesemongers came from far & wide to perform feats of fromage knowledge, care and preparation during the daytime portion of the competition, which is closed to the public. 

Competitor Sarah Maine, of Saxelby Cheese (R) with pal Scott Sherratt (L)

The pool is eventually narrowed down to 10 contenders, with the final three evening challenges of precision cheese cut, wrap and plating revealing the true cheese champion (and this part is open to the public). 

 

 

 

 

The big cheese of the evening walks away with a $1,000 cash prize and some serious curd cred.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Hundreds of cheese industry folk and fans descended upon Larkin. Cheese as far as the eye could see, people as far as the eye could see.            

 

 

Glad to know that I'm not the only one obsessed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vibe was a little bit Iron Chef and a little bit rock & roll underground rave.

A cheese gangsta T-shirt from Murrays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheese champ Steve Jones, of Cheese Bar (in Portland, OR) and last year's 2011 winner, provided this year's spread. Blue cheese ice cream anyone? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Event sponsors Neal's Yard Dairy , Rogue Creamery (and several others) provided their own tasty treats for the crowd to sample. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This guy over at the Rodolphe Le Meunier table was making raclette out of half a wheel of Morbier. Raclette out of Morbier? Zoot alors, how delish! 

 

 

 

 

 

And the winner is... Adam Smith from Cowgirl Creamery. Whey to go Adam! 

Winner Adam Smith (L) & CMI host Adam Moskowitz (R). Photo credit: JenMaler/www.facebook.com/CheesemongerInvitational

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2007-2012 Marie Fromage All Rights Reserved; Photos by Marie Fromage except where noted.

 

Brebirouss d’Argental

I recently found myself standing in front of the cheese counter at Murray’s in Grand Central Market, feeling a bit jaded and in an overall been there, done that cheese mood. 

And then it caught my eye, down in front of the case, all plump and ready to burst out of the wrapping.

“That one”, I said, and had a taste.  My cheese faith has been reborn!

Brebirouss d’Argental is a gooey, oozy sheepy French beauty with an orange rind that makes it look like it might be stinky, but it’s not.  It has a lush milky tang with a faint waft of mushroom and a subtle sweetness.

This one would pair nicely with something bright & acidic, like crisp green apple slices or a chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

 But I think it’s best just scooped onto an index finger and plopped in the mouth (when no one is looking, of course).

 

Copyright © 2007-2012 Marie Fromage All Rights Reserved; Photos by Marie Fromage except where noted.

Spring Fun Fromage: Tarentaise Reserve

Throw open the doors and fling open the windows – the sun is out and spring is here! 

Today’s beautiful weather found me running errands around town and into Ideal Cheese Shop in Midtown.

The knowledgeable folks behind the counter turned me on to Spring Brook Farm Tarentaise Reserve: an aged, Alpine-style raw cow’s milk cheese from Vermont with a tangy, vague nutty stink. Hello gorgeous! You are coming with me to a rooftop party tonight!

They also introduced me to a crisp French Jenlain Printemps Ale paired with an aged Gouda. It’s a zoomy combo, perfect for park picnic fun, so keep that in mind for your next day date with your honey.

 

Copyright © 2007-2012 Marie Fromage All Rights Reserved; Photos by Marie Fromage except where noted.

TRIBUTE

I recently said good-bye to my best friend of almost 30 years, Michael Sullivan, who died February 7 of complications following heart surgery. He was 46 years old.

He & I always had different nicknames for each other over the years, and he started calling me "Marie Fromage" when I began working at The Cheese Shop of Upper Montclair way-way back when, and it stuck. As time wore on he just called me "Fromage". I guess a person would be insulted if someone calls you “cheese” (even if it is in French). But coming from Mike, it was one of the most hilarious things I'd heard whenever he said it.

Mike will be remembered for his profound generosity, his brilliant mind and his sense of humor. The memory of the laughter that we shared will provide me with many smiles for the rest of my days.

We would often tell each other “I love you, dahling” in vague European accents to make each other laugh, but also to express what was truly in our hearts.

 I will always love you my dahling Miguel, forever and ever.

• Mike's blog "The Life Raft"
• A tribute from MSL Group
• New York Times obituary

A Cheese Pumpkin

A cheese pumpkin has absolutely nothing at all to do with fromage.  It’s a pumpkin through and through, named a cheese pumpkin because of its beige exterior and slightly flat shape. A close relative of butternut squash, it also has a creamy texture and sweet taste, which makes it the perfect specimen to use for cooking and baking. The ubiquitous jack-o-lantern is just too stringy to use for cakes and pies and no where near as tasty.

However being Marie Fromage, I thought to myself, why not make a real CHEESE pumpkin! And I got right to work.  Be the hit of the Halloween party and bring one of these little babies to the table.

 Ingredients:

1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese, room temperature

2 cups (8 oz.) shredded cheddar cheese 

2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

Pinch of salt

Pinch of smoked paprika

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Flat leaf parsley

Twisted pretzel sticks 

Equipment:

Stand mixer: with bowl and paddle attachment

Rubber spatula

Plastic wrap

Medium-sized mixing bowl

Plastic spoon

A pair of spectacularly clean hands

1) Shred the cheddar cheese while cold.  Set aside and allow the cheese to come to room temperature.

 2) Combine cream cheese, shredded cheddar cheese, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, cayenne pepper and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure everything is combined. Beat the cheese mixture until smooth.

 3) Spread out a few sheets of plastic wrap.  Mound the cheese mixture onto the plastic wrap and shape into a ball. Cover with the plastic wrap and chill for about 2 hours.

 4) When the cheese ball is firm, remove from the fridge and remove the plastic wrap.  Using your spectacularly clean hands, shape the ball until it is as round as possible, then flatten the top slightly.

 5) Now the sculpting begins!  Using the handle of a plastic spoon, carve the “ribs” of the pumpkin into the cheese ball. Smooth the edges with the spoon.

 6) Place the chopped pecans in a bowl and place the cheese pumpkin on top. Press the pecans up along the sides of the cheese pumpkin, about half way. 

7) Place cheese pumpkin on a plate. Sprinkle the top of the cheese pumpkin with a pinch of smoked paprika. Add a twisted pretzel stick into the top to resemble the stem. Add flat leaf parsley to resemble the vines and leaves.

 8) Serve with your favorite cracker and enjoy!

Copyright © 2007-2012 Marie Fromage All Rights Reserved; Photos by Marie Fromage except where noted.

It’s the Bee’s Knees – Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governors Island

One of the best New York City summer events around is the Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governors Island. The bi-annual picnic, now in its sixth year, is organized by Michael Arenella & His Dreamland Orchestra who is also featured as the main event.

Period costume is optional, but many folks went all out and donned their 1920s glad rags.

There were vendors hawking vintage clothes and jewelry, food (overpriced and lines were long so it’s best if you bring your own) and beverages – soft drinks and beer, along with St-Germain Elderflower Liqeur, a refreshing & boozy alternative.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But star of the show was the music! Michael Arenella & His Dreamland Orchestra featured a big band playing vintage jazz age dance music that made it hard to sit still. 

Another crowd pleaser was the Brooklyn-based sassy ragtime jazz of Gelber & Manning that really got the group on their feet.

Seriously good times and here’s something I learned – there is actually a jazz age scene going on in the city.  I was aware of a couple of bands that specialized in fun old-timey tunes (check out The Two Man Gentlemen Band, The Lucky Dogs, and Lauren Ambrose & The Leisure Class to name a few) but there is an entire vintage party circuit one could plug into. Turns-out there are a number of people who would rather party like it’s 1923 and here's a sampling (Wit's End, Gypsy Jam, The Champagne Riot). Who knew?

Now beat it four-flusher, I’m cutting a rug with my baby.*

Click here for more information about the Jazz Age Lawn Party.

 *(To help you fit-in when you hit the parties, here's a handy guide to jazz age slang)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2007-2012 Marie Fromage All Rights Reserved; Photos by Marie Fromage except where noted.

Stress-Free with a Side of Sea Spray

Brilliant.  That’s that best way to describe the SeaStreak high-speed catamaran ferry from Manhattan to Martha’s Vineyard.  Hop-on where E. 35^th Street meets the East River and five stress-free hours later hop-off at Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. The transition from harried New Yorker to a relaxed and smiling vacationer begins the moment you climb aboard.

Think about it - while everyone is sitting in traffic on I-95 and then waiting at the Cape Cod ferry terminals, you are kicking-back with a cocktail on the top of a lovely boat with a beautiful view, the sun and sea spray on your face.  Or stay below and watch one of the family-friendly movies screened during the journey.  Or read.  Or sleep.  Or just stare out the window.  The calming choices are endless!

The weekend-only seasonal ferries depart Manhattan at 4:45pm on Fridays and leave Oak Bluffs on Sundays at 4:45pm (departing from the Steamship Authority Terminal), which makes spending just a weekend on Martha’s Vineyard a reasonable proposition. No car necessary! Taxi vans are waiting to whisk ferry riders away to all points on the island.

And here’s a delicious tip – before heading home make a stop at Nancy’s in Oak Bluffs for one of the most sublime lobster rolls EVER.

If SeaStreak could just make a stop in Chatham my world would be complete.

SeaStreak ferries to Martha’s Vineyard from New York City operate from Memorial weekend to Labor Day weekend, with the final run of the season taking place during Columbus weekend. www.seastreak.com

When Life Gives You Blueberries…

The midsummer season is bursting with amazing fresh blueberries!  Blueberry muffins, blueberry pancakes, blueberry crumbles – all of these are terrifically delicious but no friend to those who try to walk on the light side. Sure, blueberries can always be added to yogurt or thrown into a smoothie, but sometimes the craving calls for CARBS.

Below is a recipe for low fat blueberry scones that I found on Weight Watchers.com* that answers the blueberry + carb siren song with little diet damage.  I tinkered with the ingredients without altering the calorie count and kicked-up the flavor by swapping-out honey for maple syrup and adding a bit of fresh lemon zest. I also added a few tips for creating a more tender scone.

These freeze well and are fabulous toasted. Add a side of fruit and a glass of milk (or a small piece of cheese. CHEESE!) and it is a very satisfying, scrumptious, low-guilt breakfast. 

“Lite” Blueberry Scones

Yield: 12 scones

 Ingredients:

 1¼ cup blueberries
2 Tbs. sugar

1¼ cup, plus 1 Tbs. all-purpose flour

¾ cup cornmeal
 1 Tbs. baking powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp. sea salt
1 heaping tsp. fresh lemon zest
1 cup low fat buttermilk (1.5%)
1/3 cup maple syrup
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
1 large egg, beaten
Cooking Spray

 Hardware:

2 baking sheets
Measuring cups
Measuring spoons
Big bowl
2 medium bowls
Rubber spatula
Microplane grater or regular grater (use to zest the lemon)
Fork

The How-To: 

Pre-heat oven to 400°.

Coat baking sheets with cooking spray and set aside.

In a medium bowl, gently mix blueberries with sugar and set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, lemon zest and the 1¼ cup of flour.

Add the butter and using a fork, cut the butter into the dry ingredients. The mixture should look like coarse crumbs when butter has been cut in completely.

In another medium bowl combine buttermilk, maple syrup and egg.

 Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Using a rubber spatula fold everything together just to combine; do not overwork the dough.

Add 1 Tbsp. flour to the blueberries and sugar and toss to combine (this will help keep the blueberries from sinking to the bottom of the scone).

Gently, GENTLY fold the blueberries into the batter. Try to avoid smashing the blueberries because their juice will bleed into the dough.

Using a ¼ cup measuring cup (or even better – an ice cream scoop if there’s one about the same size) measure out 6 scoops of dough per baking sheet, spaced about 2 inches apart.

 Bake until scones turn a light golden brown, about 10-15 minutes (oven temps vary – set time for 10 minutes and check for color, add a few more minutes bake time if necessary).

*Adapted from WeightWatchers.com recipe “Blueberry Breakfast Tops” (scones are 4 points per serving).