Marie Fromage

Stress-Free with a Side of Sea Spray

Brilliant.  That’s that best way to describe the SeaStreak high-speed catamaran ferry from Manhattan to Martha’s Vineyard.  Hop-on where E. 35^th Street meets the East River and five stress-free hours later hop-off at Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. The transition from harried New Yorker to a relaxed and smiling vacationer begins the moment you climb aboard.

Think about it - while everyone is sitting in traffic on I-95 and then waiting at the Cape Cod ferry terminals, you are kicking-back with a cocktail on the top of a lovely boat with a beautiful view, the sun and sea spray on your face.  Or stay below and watch one of the family-friendly movies screened during the journey.  Or read.  Or sleep.  Or just stare out the window.  The calming choices are endless!

The weekend-only seasonal ferries depart Manhattan at 4:45pm on Fridays and leave Oak Bluffs on Sundays at 4:45pm (departing from the Steamship Authority Terminal), which makes spending just a weekend on Martha’s Vineyard a reasonable proposition. No car necessary! Taxi vans are waiting to whisk ferry riders away to all points on the island.

And here’s a delicious tip – before heading home make a stop at Nancy’s in Oak Bluffs for one of the most sublime lobster rolls EVER.

If SeaStreak could just make a stop in Chatham my world would be complete.

SeaStreak ferries to Martha’s Vineyard from New York City operate from Memorial weekend to Labor Day weekend, with the final run of the season taking place during Columbus weekend. www.seastreak.com

I can now cross this place off of my "must dine" France restaurant list! Great article in April Vanity Fair about storied Paris bistro L'Ami Louis:

http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2011/04/lami-louis-201104

Bolt Bus

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – Bolt Bus is the best, most fuss-free way to get from New York City to Boston and back (or DC, Baltimore or Philadelphia if that’s your plan).  A recent trip to Boston cost only $38.50 round-trip.  $38.50!!  I caught the bus in Midtown and got off of the bus at Boston’s South Station. Point A to point B with no nonsense. 

Here’s an example: a 6:30 am bus on a Saturday took only 3 ½ hours on the way up (no stops, no traffic) and a 2pm bus on a weekday took only 4 ½ hours on the way back with one 15-minute stop for food and a bit of traffic (I guess the stops are at the discretion of the driver).  The bus is clean and modern with nice “pleather” seats, a restroom that wasn't gross and free wifi (which works most of the time).  Even the other passengers seemed to be free of any whiff of “Midnight Cowboy” creepiness.

Helpful hint: print out your boarding pass to show the driver. Bolt Bus is a modern operation and in theory you are allowed to show the driver your confirmation code on your smartphone, but I've heard it through the grapevine that this sometimes doesn't work out so well. 

Cost, comfort & convenience.  All in, Bolt Bus beats flying – and even taking the train – hands down.  www.boltbus.com 

(photo courtesy Boston.com)

UPDATE: July 2012 - I am re-thinking my Bolt Bus crush. My cousin was recently on a Bolt Bus, bound for NYC from Boston and the bus caught on fire!  She and friend fled out of an emergency window and sustained a broken toe and bruised rib, not to mention busted fun NYC weekend plans. Will I ever take a Bolt Bus again?  I've never had a bad expeience, but click here for the video of my cousin's fire-ball bus, so you tell me!

 

LA My Way

Let’s face it folks, it was a long hard winter.  Weeks and months of snow and freezing cold can drive anyone insane.  What’s a frozen New Yorker to do when Spring is still weeks and weeks away?  She packs her bags and hops on the next flight out of here to some place warm, that’s what. LA was calling and I was on my way. 

I’d never really been to Los Angeles before.  I’d been to nearby Long Beach and Disneyland well over a decade before and had just not gotten around to returning to do more exploring.  This winter was particularly ferocious, so the siren song of a long-weekend getaway to a balmy 80 degrees and seeing old friends proved irresistible and I had to follow.

A Place to Lay Your Head – Ramada Plaza Hotel West Hollywood

I really had no idea where I was going or where to even begin to look as far as finding a stylish, well-situated hotel that was also affordable.  And by affordable, I mean somewhere around $100 a night.  I knew it was going to be a challenge to find just the right place at that price.  My LA friends steered me towards the Beverly Hills / West Hollywood area for a central location.  But as for where exactly to stay, I had to do some research.

 If money were no object, I would have stayed at Chateau Marmont. Avalon Beverly Hills would have been a less pricey but highly fashionable alternative, however still out of my range.  I also looked at major hotel hot spot The Standard Hollywood and the prices were getting more realistic, and yet not quite.  Finally, through a combination of a search done via Kayak.com and customer reviews on TripAdvisor.com I settled on the Ramada Plaza West Hollywood.

I lucked out, and for the real-people rate of $126 a night it had everything I wanted.   The room was stylish enough and big but basic, with a huge and really comfy king-size bed, fluffy towels, flat screen TV, in-room coffee maker and free Wifi. There was a small but nice rooftop pool and parking was in the building (not cheap at $27 a day, but valet parking is a way of life in these parts) and the staff was friendly and helpful.  All with a central location in lively and fun West Hollywood, right on Santa Monica Boulevard, the perfect spot from which to launch my daily adventures. Hooray!  

I was in LA mainly to see some family & old friends and time was limited, so sight-seeing and going to the hot spots was not a priority.  However, I did cover quite a bit of territory and had some pretty tasty eats along the way.  Even cheese made it onto the itinerary.  Some highlights:

Santa Monica – Huckleberry Café

 I think that if I was ever forced to move to L.A. I would set-up house in Santa Monica.  Great shops & restaurants, sunny neighborhoods, and a straight shot to the beach on a bike.  And I’d be hanging at Huckleberry Café. 

Artisanal breads, sandwiches, salads, soups, roast chicken, flatbread pizza, pastry and more, all of it made in-house with great care, fresh as can be, using quality ingredients.   For example, how about a sandwich made on a crusty baguette with tangy pesto, oozy burratta, roasted red peppers and prosciutto?  And for dessert, plump and juicy strawberries dipped in chocolate. Yep, it’s delicious.  Next time I’m going to get mine to go and eat it on the beach.

Huckleberry Café: 1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. www.huckleberrycafe.com

Malibu - Paradise Cove Beach Café

 Shake off the New York snark, make like Gidget and get yourself down to Paradise Cove and Beach Café, a beautiful private beach located in Malibu.  Paradise Cove is a famous location for countless movies & TV shows (“Beach Blanket Bingo” anyone?).  It also has a café where you can order a giant margarita, a huge plate of calamari to share and while away the afternoon with sea spray and sun on your face.  And the café will validate parking (which is otherwise about $25).    Kick back and gaze up at the multi-million dollar homes precariously perched on the hills behind you, and be thankful that that mortgage payment is not your problem but you still get to enjoy this spectacular view.

Paradise Cove Beach Café:  28128 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu. www.paradisecovemalibu.com

Westwood – Palomino

I ended-up in Westwood one evening to have dinner with a friend who is slogging through a masters degree program at UCLA.  Westwood is a charming little village within LA that is pretty much dominated by UCLA, with the distinguished Hammer Museum and cool vintage movie theaters as extra added attractions.  There seemed to be countless dining options of varying quality and price points and my friend wisely chose Palomino as our dinner destination.  Palomino is a small national chain serving up Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, ranging from small plates and pizzas to steak, chicken, pork and pasta.  I was surprised to find out that Palomino was a chain (horrors!) as this was not obvious in either the décor or the quality of the food, which is a good sign.  And the locals seem to dig it - the lively Saturday night crowd seemed to be a mix of visiting parents treating their kids to a decent meal, students splurging, locals on a date, clumps of singles at the bar and a line forming at the door. So if you ever happen to find yourself in Westwood, this is a solid adult dining option.

Palomino:  10877 Wilshire Boulevard, Westwood.  www.palomino.com

Beverly Hills – The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills

A highlight of my trip was a visit to the famed Cheese Store of Beverly Hills.  I could smell it as I walked down the street, a sure sign that I was in for something special and I was not disappointed!   The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills features a huge selection of the best fromage from around the world as well as local curds.  They are the go-to cheese supplier for local chefs and caterers and are clearly a favorite of the LA food scene.

During my visit there I had the good fortune of meeting Dominick DiBartolomeo, a Cheese Store employee who is not only an enthusiastic font cheesy knowledge but someone who brings something very special to the table. He is also the chef-owner of Domenico’s, a line of hand-made pastas, delectable sauces, lush pestos, extraordinary tapenades and the most delicious sun dried tomatoes I have ever tasted.  Truly.  All of it, everything was incredibly fresh and of the highest quality.  The products are available at The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, Los Angeles farmer’s markets and, fortunately for me (and you), online. I am now officially addicted and my Fedex bill is going to be outrageous this year. Edible heaven.
The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills: 419 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. www.cheesestorebh.com

The Rest

I spent a great deal of time driving, it’s a fact of life here and I learned that one must allow for at least 45 minutes between destinations if arriving on-time is a priority, accounting for distance and traffic.  So drive I did, also spending some time in sunny Tarzana and Burbank.  And the last place I passed though on my way back to the airport was good old Hollywood.  Here’s the thing - I was not inspired to get out of the car and walk around.  At night it all looks very exciting, but in the glaring light of day it was all really gritty and kind of seedy.  The Hollywood Walk of Fame?  The part that I saw looked more like the Boulevard of Broken Dreams and brought to mind Times Square in the bad old days.  Seems like the legend of Hollywood outshines the reality by quite a bit. 

Clearly I only scratched the surface – Los Angeles is a huge, sprawling and fascinating city that will be on my list as a place to return to again and again, with each visit being a fresh adventure on wheels. 

Getting There, Getting Around

American Airlines offers several daily non-stop flights between LAX and New York-area airports.  And believe me, you will need to rent a car (I got a good rate via National) with GPS for navigating all of the highways and byways. Kayak.com and Tripadvisor.com are also great web sites to visit to scope out travel deals and customer feedback.

 

Bites: Hudson Valley Camembert; The Magna Carta & You; New Languages Jazz Festival; Bolt Bus

Cheese 

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Hudson Valley Camembert

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A wonderful combo of sheep and cow’s milk, this little baby is bursting with buttery, creamy deliciousness.  Let it sit on the counter for a few hours to allow for peak ooziness and then dig in, especially tasty with crisp apples and an even crispier white wine or champagne.  Look for the tidy little white package sporting a label with a black sheep on a green background.  And if you find yourself in Old Chatham, NY any time soon, drive right in and get it straight from the source!

Old Chatham Sheepherding Co:  www.blacksheepcheese.com

Eats 

Summer may be over, but it’s not the end of enjoying good times in the great outdoors.  So, after a lovely autumn day on Governor’s Island, hop off the ferry and stroll over to some noteworthy edible hot spots.

Fraunces Tavern, The Magna Carta & You

 

Established in 1762 and still going strong, Fraunces Tavern will take you back to the days when George Washington roamed the streets of lower Manhattan. Grab a pint or two in the tavern then head to the Fraunces  

Tavern Museum, which is currently hosting a very special guest.  The one and only Magna Carta, the document that got this whole constitutional law stuff started way back in 1215, will be on display in the flesh for all to see until December 15. Head on down and let your freedom flag fly.

Fraunces Tavern (Financial District) 54 Pearl Street at Broad Street; 212-968-1776; www.frauncestavern.com 

Stone Street

After the Magna Carta viewing, keep the history theme going with a stroll – and a meal – on Stone Street, a winding, cobble-stoned lane created in the 1600s (it’s the city’s first paved street) that is thankfully under the tourist radar.  Long forgotten for most of the twentieth century it earned landmark status in 1996, got a good scrub down, and is now a thriving, 

lively and lovely spot to drink and dine al fresco at one of the many food establishments and pubs that line the way. Best time to go is on the weekends, where it is free of the financial  

district worker bees and full of laid-back lower Manhattan residents.    Stone Street is located in the lower Manhattan Financial District, between South William and Pearl Streets.

Music – New Languages Festival

Jazz is alive and well and currently stirring things up at McCarren Hall in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The New Languages Festival celebrates free jazz in all of its lively forms, kicking off its fifth year last Thursday with a stellar night, featuring the righteous and rollicking Respect Sextet,  

 

 

 

 

the atmospheric House of Mirrors and Darcy James Argue’s Secret Society, an 18-piece “steam punk big band” that will stretch your brain and get your toes tapping at the same time. And there’s more to come, so head on over to McCarren Hall and expand your musical horizons. 

 The New Languages Festival at McCarren Hall (until September 26):  98 Bayard Street, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. www.newlanguages.org; Only $10 for a night of sweet crazy music!

Travel – Bolt Bus

$17.50 and three and a half hours of my time - that’s all it cost to get from Midtown Manhattan to Boston on a recent weekend.  Nice and clean and with comfy seats.  And there’s wifi!  Well, some of the time. Super good deal here people. www.boltbus.com

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly, except for The Respect Sextet by Ryan Gould)

 

Bites: Clear the Room with Red Hawk; A Cheesy Read; Edible Tweets; Lamb Face Sandwich; Cape Escape

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Cowgirl Creamery’s dense triple-cream, cow’s milk washed rind Red Hawk.  Whoa, this one stinks to high heaven!  You may be asked to please take that thing outside or to open a window.  Not recommended for eating in cars.  But boy oh boy, this is a lusty one. Creamy and tangy, it hits all the right cheesy notes.  Look for it at your favorite fine cheese counter or buy it online at www.cowgirlcreamery.com.

A Cheesy Read:  The Cheese Chronicles

Liz Thorpe sure knows her way around a cheese cave.  As the Vice President at Murray’s Cheese in NYC she’s seen a curd or two in her day and has a deep knowledge and respect for American cheese making.   "The Cheese Chronicles” is part history book, part reference and part personal odyssey, all told in a breezy down-to-earth style.  This is my kind of beach reading! 

Cheesy Fun:  In case you were wondering, here's how to write “cheese” in Chinese. 

Eats

“If You Don’t Tweet, You Don’t Eat” -- Hildegard

Midtown worker bees – and eaters all over the city for that matter – are dancing with delight over a new wave of food trucks offering edibles that are actually good.   Trucks offering grass-fed beef burgers, schnitzel, cupcakes, waffles, dumplings and other treats can be found roaming the streets at any hour of the day and night.  But due to turf wars with the long-standing street food old guard these trucks are always on the move.  So the key to gaining access to their goodies is a little know-how provided courtesy of Twitter.   “Follow” your favorite truck via Twitter and you will get word – straight from the source – of exactly what time and where they will be parked for the day (or the hour).  This way you can plan precisely how long it will take to get from your desk to the truck to beat the usually crazy long line. Lunch hour is precious and in most cases following these tweets is worth the effort and a welcome break from Midtown munchie monotony.

Foodie Tawk – Heritage Radio Network

Heritage Radio Network is an internet radio site that features culinary taste makers from around the country, with regular shows from cheese queen Anne Saxelby to programs about wine, how-to tips and the intersection of music and food, among others.

The show “Urban Foragers”, hosted by Fatty Crab chef Zak Pelaccio recently featured my pal Joe Distefano, the culinary go-to guy for all you need to know about NYC’s varied ethnic delicacies. If you want to learn more about notable Asian restaurants and where to get a good lamb face sandwich, tune in!  And p.s. – Joe recently did a Queens food tour with star chefs Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert that will be featured in an article called “Feasting on Flushing” in the debut issue of Edible Queens, due to hit the streets in September. 

A Worthy Read:  “The Real Cost of Cheap Food” featured in the August 31 issue of Time Magazine. 

The abundant cheap food available to Americans is actually slowly killing the land, the ocean, the animals and us; not really cheap at all.  How can you help? Vote with your shopping cart: whenever possible buy organic, free-range, locally produced. For starters.

Travel Eats:  Cape Escape

Gastro Chic & I spent a recent long weekend eating our way though Chatham, Massachusetts, my favorite summer escape spot located on the elbow of Cape Cod. Bluefish, clams, clams, clams plus the quest for a good lobster roll were the order of the day, with lots of other delicious treats in between.

 Click here for my Cape favorites posting from way back when.  And here are Gastro Chic’s picks: The Chatham Squire, plus other notable nosh spots.

(Photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly, except  for Chatham Squire Monomoy steamer by Gastro Chic)

A Day Away – Governors Island, NYC

I know what you’re thinking.  How does a trip to a park in New York City count as a getaway?  Doesn’t the subway go there (sort of)? Well yes, the subway does sort-of go there.  And then you hop onto a ferry (free!) and in about 5 minutes you will find yourself in an urban oasis, a world away surrounded by water, grass, trees and peace.

First stop - Water Taxi Beach

The journey ends right here for those who simply want some sand between their toes, hot sun on their faces, a little music, a hot dog and a cold drink to go with the spectacular view.  

But don't stop there...

There's so many options for fun and relaxation on Governors Island (see map here).  Once you've fueled up on beer and burgers, hop on a tram, start walking or rent a bike from Bike and Roll and hit the road; there's 172 acres to explore!

Cruise past Castle Williams...

                                       and make your way to Picnic Point, located at the Southern tip of the island.

If you time things right you'll be able to score a hammock! And the view of Lady Liberty can't be beat.  

Quirky and sometimes haunting moments pierce the peace as you tour the island, with art projects sponsored by Creative Time, FIGMENT, Sculptors Guild and others popping up here and there.  At Picnic Point you hear a woman sing "where are you going, where are you going" from the 70's musical "Godspell" every 15 minutes over loud speakers coming from a place that you can't quite pinpoint.  It's weird and brings to mind prayer time at a cult.  But I digress...

Also at Picnic Point is a three-acre organic farm and there's plans to sell the produce at Water Taxi Beach. 

More gorgeous open space can be found at the Parade Ground, located at the halfway point of the island. 

On the edge of the Parade Ground there are giant wind chimes that make eerie low tones evoking a haunted spooky feeling, a running theme on the island.

Governors Island has a large number of abandoned buildings, remnants of the days when the island served as a military outpost and most of the buildings are slated for demolition. However the Northern part of the island has many structures dating back to the 19th century and are protected as a historic district.  

The old Officer's Club

Several of the more interesting buildings have been opened up to the public and currently serve as art installations and galleries. 

St. Cornelius Chapel seems like it would be a typical old church until you step inside... 

                                                                                                

 

it looks like Satan lives here now!

 

Nolan Park has several small victorian homes that give this area a New England feel.

Many of these homes are now functioning as temporary art galleries, but I secretly fantasize about turning one of them into my summer cottage.

The grandest home of all is the Commanding Officers House. Host your wedding here!

There's a huge kitchen that has peepholes on the doors, so you can check on the caterers to make sure they're not slacking off.

But wait, there's more!  There's almost not enough time in the day to experience everything that Governors Island has to offer. There's artsy miniature golf, kayaking, ranger-lead tours of the historic district, live music concerts and there's even a day camp and art classes for the kiddies. And the beauty part is most of it is free-free-free. I like the sound of that!

Get up to the minute info by checking out the Governors Island blog. 

Governors Island is open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from May 30th through October 11th.  The ferry to Governors Island is located at the Battery Maritime Building, located next to the Staten Island Ferry terminal in Lower Manhattan. Click here for directions & a ferry schedule. 

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Bites: All Hail The High Line; A Bit of Cheese; Rice Krispie Treat Tower of Delish

Travel: All Hail The High Line!

For as long as I can remember The High Line was an eye sore snaking through Chelsea, an abandoned elevated industrial railway in a once dicey part of town that the city just hadn’t gotten around to tearing down.  Fortunately for all of us a few visionaries had the bright idea to turn it into a park and after many years the dream has finally become a reality:  The High Line is now the latest example of reclaimed urban space in NYC that will make your heart sing.

The High Line runs from Gansevoort Street in the Meat Packing District to West 34^th Street.  Right now the park is complete up to West 20^th Street (the second section is slated to be completed in 2010).   

Enter on the corner of Gansevoort Street at Washington Street and let the stroll begin.

The old rails peek out here and there and have been planted with local wild flowers and weeds to give it a playful "overgrown" look.

Kick back on a chaise-like bench with a cup of coffee and take in a relaxing view of the Hudson.

You will come upon a theater of sorts with bleacher seating where you can relax and gaze at the traffic zooming up 10^th Avenue, which is surprisingly hypnotic.

The High Line is strictly for pedestrians with no bikes, rollerblades or pets allowed, which adds to the overall serenity vibe. And in New York City you need to grab on to any serenity you can find with both hands!

For more information visit the High Line web site at www.thehighline.org.

Cheese

Something Stinky This Way Comes:  Brunet - an Italian goat cheese delivered to you in a tidy, bloomy rind round. A little creamy & a little crumbly with a tangy kick!

A Glass of Wine, A Plate of Cheese & Thou:

The Bar Room at The Modern:  In the mood for a classy & sophisticated place to eat a little something but you can do without the hefty price tag?  May I suggest a bit of cheese and wine at the Bar Room at The Modern, where a solid and varied cheese selection + the least expensive glass of red wine on the menu (a robust Spanish Tinta del Pias) = cheapchiceats.  The Modern at MOMA: Midtown; 9 W. 53rd St.
(bet. 5th & 6th Aves.). 212-333-1220.  www.themodernnyc.com

Recipe

Rice Krispie Treat Tower of Delish

This is more a serving suggestion than an actual recipe.  But oh, what a suggestion – this will delight children young and old.  Perfect for your next BBQ, as it’s a lip-smacking show stopper that’s easy to put together.

* For the Rice Krispies Treat Balls:

3 Tbs. butter

1 package/10 oz. marshmallows

6 cups Rice Krispies cereal 

 * For the Dulce de Leche

Dulce de Leche is a type of caramel made from condensed milk that has been cooked down for a period of time.  It is extremely popular in Argentina and can be found in gourmet stores here, but it’s just as easy to make your own.

 1.     Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees. Make sure wire rack is in the middle of the oven.

2.     Fill a kettle with water and bring to a boil.

3.     Pour one 14 oz. can of condensed milk into a 9-inch pie pan.

4.     Cover pie pan tightly with aluminum foil. Place inside of a larger roasting pan. 

5.     Open oven and pull rack out part of the way. Place roasting pan on oven rack.  Fill the roasting pan with boiling pan, coming up to half the side of the pie pan. Carefully slide the rack into the oven and close the door.

6.     Bake for 1 hour until the milk is thick and caramel colored.  Remove pan from oven and allow to cool a bit.

7.     When water in pan has cooled a little, carefully remove pie pan. Remove the foil.

8.     Break up the caramel with a wire whisk and beat until smooth.

 * Other ingredients:

·      Semi-sweet chocolate, melted (use a good quality chocolate, such as a bar of  Ghirardelli). To melt, just use the microwave: break into pieces and place in a microwave safe bowl.  Heat on high for one minute and stir.  Keep heating and stirring in one minute intervals until melted.

·      Grated white chocolate OR coconut (or what the heck, use both).

* To Assemble the Tower

1. In large pot melt butter over low heat. Add marshmallows and stir until completely melted. Remove from heat.

2. Add the Rice Krispies to the butter-marshmallow mix and stir until completely coated.

3. Using your (spectacularly clean) hands pull off a piece of the warm cereal mixture and roll into the size of a golf ball. Place on a round serving platter or large plate. Continue making the balls and continue to stack on the plate until a cone shape is achieved.

4.  Drizzle with the prepared dulce de leche.

 5.     Drizzle with the melted chocolate.

6.     Sprinkle with white chocolate or coconut and serve to your drooling, adoring fans!

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Italy - Land of History, Land of Pleasure, Part II of II

Rome!

I took the sleek and comfy high-speed Eurostar Italia train from Bologna’s tidy Centrale train station to Rome’s bustling Termini station.  Boom - in just under 3 hours I arrive.  Rome’s frenetic energy greeted me with the open arms of a glamorous and highly amusing old friend.  It was my third trip to Rome but it would be my first time to just relax and enjoy the place on its own terms.  I’d seen all of the major sites more than once, waited on the lines and endured the tourist sensory overload and fatigue.  Now I can relax, sleep in a bit, see some friends and MAKE MORE PASTA!

A Place to Lay Your Head – Hotel Art by the Spanish Steps

Go down a little side street... then down another, hang a right at the art gallery...

and walk down the cobbled corridor and you’ve arrived – Hotel Art is a quirky and cool little boutique design hotel tucked away in a former chapel.  

It’s located exactly 3 minutes from the Spanish Steps, a great area right in the center of things, right near the subway in one of the nicer parts of town. They’ve outfitted and updated this former sacred space with every modern convenience, giving the place a feel for the past that’s rooted very much in the present.

I was escorted to the “orange” floor – see the photo.  It took me a minute to get my bearings when I exited the elevator (will I be able to find my room if I had a few too many at dinner?) and I began to worry about what my room was going to look like.  

Thankfully, my room was a small but serene oasis of muted colors, linen sheets, big smushy duvet, a movie star bathrobe with slippers and a nice selection of yummy Etro toiletries.  And breakfast was included!  

Hotel Art by the Spanish Steps:  Via Margutta 56; +39.06.328711

Rooms during the low season start at  185.00 Euro per night (which I consider a deal for what you get & the location). www.hotelart.it

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Pasta Time with Diane Seed

"I fell in love with an Italian, then I fell in love with Italy, and then I fell in love with the food…and now I just stay for the food."

And thus began my evening of pasta making with renowned cookbook author and culinary tour guide Diane Seed.  Diane, who is originally from Great Britain, has made Rome her home base for over 30 years and made a career of translating Italian recipes and lifestyle for the English speaking world.  

You probably have a copy of her famous cookbook “The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces” on your bookshelf and don’t even realize it.  What are you waiting for?  Bust it out and get cooking!  Not only are her recipes authentic, they are surprisingly easy and delicious.  We spent a relaxed evening in her kitchen, with a view of the Coliseum, making delicious dishes that I’ve already cooked for friends a few times over back in New York.  This was also the perfect complement to my pasta making lessons in Bologna.  There, I created the pasta by hand but didn’t actually learn how to cook it (I know, how odd).  With Diane I learned not only how to cook it but what sauces pair with which kind of pasta best, plus a few other tips such as:

 * 80% of Italians use dried pasta, and the pasta they use is De Cecco (made from durum/semolina wheat).  

* When using canned tomatoes, use whole San Marzano plum tomatoes (look for this on the label).

* Italian men love women.  Some, a little too much!

Here’s one of my favorite recipes from the lesson:

Tagliatelle al Salmone (Tagliatelle with a Smoked Salmon Cream Sauce)

Adapted from Diane Seed

1 lb. Tagliatelle

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

½ small onion, coarsely chopped

4-5 oz. smoked salmon (half coarsely chopped, the other half cut into strips and reserved for garnish)

7 fl. oz. heavy cream

Fresh cracked black pepper, to taste

A handful of flat leaf Italian parsley, coarsely chopped (optional; this is my personal spin to this dish and gives it an extra fresh pop).

Fill a large pot with water, add a healthy handful of salt (make it like the sea!) and cook pasta according to package directions.

While the water is boiling and pasta is cooking, melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan over a low flame.  Add the onions and cook until softened (but not browned). Add half of the smoked salmon, roughly chopped and add the cream.  Cook until salmon and cream are warmed through. 

Pour the salmon mixture into a food processor and combine until smooth. 

Drain the cooked pasta and add to a large serving bowl.  Add the salmon sauce, salmon strips, chopped parsley and black pepper.  Toss gently and serve immediately.  Now wasn’t that easy? 

The Italian Gourmet - Diane Seed's Cookery School: www.italiangourmet.com

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Other Treats & Eats

La Terrazza Bar at Hotel Eden

Even though actually staying at The Hotel Eden this time around wasn’t in the budget for moi, I sure as heck could afford a nice glass of wine in their fabulous and glamorous Terrazza Bar!  Go at cocktail time and watch the sun set slowly over the eternal city with a view of St. Peter's Basilica in the distance (click here to see what I’m talking about). With the price of the wine you get a very nice side bonus of some canapé, olives, chips and nuts, plus a floor show in the form of fashionable Italians and assorted international men of mystery.

La Terrazza Bar at Hotel Eden:  Via Ludovisi, 49; +39 06 478 121

La Buvette

I had one night when I dined alone in Rome and I had no idea where to go.  I asked the helpful concierge at the hotel to recommend a place and was directed to La Buvette, which was a short walk from my hotel.  My expectations were very low and I anticipated a tourist trap where I’d be seated next to the kitchen, ignored by the wait staff and served drab food. I soon discovered my fears were unwarranted and I ended up having a terrific meal.  The gracious staff escorted me to their subterranean dining lair, sat me at a great table right in the center of the room and the meal procession began.  I swooned over a dish of baked tender baby eggplant stuffed with mozzarella, black olives, grape tomatoes and toasted pine nuts.  The baby lamb chops had a crispy, salty crust and were gnaw-to-the-bone scrumptious, served with a lush fava bean puree.  And for dessert, a voluptuous vanilla semi-freddo studded with nougat and Gianduja chocolate. Oh baby.

La Buvette: Via Vittoria, 47; +39 066 790383

Palatium Enoteca Regionale

Palatium is a chic and modern wine bar located near the Spanish Steps that highlights the region of Lazio, the area of Italy that calls Rome its capital. Great for a nice glass of robust wine and a plate of Rome’s famous fried artichokes.

Palatium Enoteca Regionale: Via Frattina, 94; +39 066 9202132

Granita Caffe from Tazza D’Oro

Take a break from sight seeing and add a turbo twist to your afternoon espresso with a Granita Caffe, a frosty coffee slushy served with a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream on top. Starbucks has nothing on this!

Tazza D’Oro:  Via degli Orfani, 84 (near the Pantheon); +39 06 6789792

Pizza Bianca from Forno Campo de' Fiori

 Pizza Bianca. Think of the best, most chewy, crusty pizza you’ve ever had and take away the sauce and cheese. Add fresh rosemary, olive oil and salt and you are about to eat one of the truly most delicious, straight forward Italian treats known to man. Grab a few slices, lean against the nearby fountain and savor each bite with the sun on your face and the market bustling around you.

Forno Campo De' Fiori, 22 - Vicolo del Gallo, 14 ; +39 06.68806662

The Pantheon

Hands down the oldest man-made thing I’ve ever seen and my favorite Roman site.  The Pantheon is also a source of wisdom, a reminder to me to relax, have a gelato, savor it and be in the moment because this too shall pass.  The Pantheon, like the dude, abides.

 

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Traveling alone in Italy is a snap, even with a shaky command of the language, as the people there are generally warm and generous.  To ease your way, don’t dress like a slob, mind your manners and learn a few key phrases, such as:

 “Please” =  Per favore

“Thank you” = Grazie

“Excuse me” = Scusi

“I’m sorry, I don’t understand, do you speak English?” =  Mi dispiace, non capisco, parla inglese?

“Don’t touch me.” = Non mi tocchi

“Help!” = Aiuto!

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Getting There & Getting Around

I flew to Italy round-trip via KLM (with a stop in Amsterdam each way; $650 coach class from New York/JFK).  Hint: I lurked all of the travel search engines until the right configuration of price & layover time (no more than 2 hours) appeared, finally pressing the button at 12:30am on a weeknight approximately 6 weeks before my trip.  In Bologna I walked and took a taxi around town as-needed. In Rome, I walked, took the subway and occasionally took a taxi. Easy-breezy and affordable.

Buon viaggio!

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(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)

Italy - Land of History, Land of Pleasure, Part I of II

It was time.  Time for me to take a break, leave the country and refresh my jaded heart and even more jaded palate.  For an extra twist, this time around I was traveling alone, “sono uno”.  Italy was calling as the perfect place to go solo, to gain some perspective and some new cooking skills! 

Ah, Bologna

Italy has long been regarded as a culinary Mecca for foodies, and the Emilia-Romagna region - Bologna is its capital city - has been specifically noted as the center of major Italian deliciousness. Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, tortellini, mortadella (so not your Oscar Meyer), ragù alla Bolognese all hail from this region.  It made perfect sense to me that this should be where I learn the subtleties of the sfoglia (flour and egg pasta). 

The Main Event - La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese 

La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese was the primary reason for my visit to Bologna.  Italian food celeb Alessandra Spisni founded the school and runs it with her family, all award-winning pasta makers.  I opted for a 2-day course of study and cranked out tortellini (tiny, meat-filled bundles of joy), tortelloni (similar to tortellini but bigger and cheese filled), spinach ravioli, tagliatelle, penne, gnocchi – the list goes on.  

There’s a dead serious emphasis here on the techniques of hand-made, hand-rolled pasta. But there was also spontaneous singing, laughing, snacking and flour throwing! And at the end of our lessons Papa Spisni turned our fresh pasta into mind-blowing culinary miracles and we all sat down together and enjoyed the fruits of our labors with a nice bottle of wine. Ahhh.

This, people, is why I came to Italy.  I was in heaven.  

La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese: Via Malvasia 49; +39-051-6491576

www.lavecchiascuola.com 

A Place to Lay Your Head – Best Western Hotel San Donato

Yes, that’s right.  I stayed at a Best Western in Italy.  Why would I do that you ask?  I was on vacation!  Why not treat myself and stay at the swanky Grand Hotel Baglioni?  Well here’s something I didn’t realize pre-trip and will now always refer to for trips to come – Best Western hotels rock.  

For 99 euros a night a got a simple but huge, comfortable, clean and safe room in a hotel that was a former palazzo, located smack-dab in the middle town, steps from the famous two towers. 

Every morning I awoke to the sounds of soft church bells ringing in the distance.  The staff was super helpful and a huge, sumptuous breakfast was included, complete with made-to-order cappuccino. What a deal!

Best Western Hotel San Donato : Via Zamboni 16, Bologna; +39 051 235395; www.hotelsandonato.it

What to See & What to Do

Bologna is a city for wandering: much of the city is a beautiful, mellow medieval jewel box, famous for its miles of porticos and picturesque piazzas, with the Piazza Maggiore being the most majestic. 

Pop into Santo Stefano, a 1,000 year old complex of little churches. 

 

Stroll the food market, located on and around Via Clavature and Via Caprarie.  

Be sure to stop in to La Baita for cheese (Via Pescherie Vecchie) and A.F. Tamborini (Via Caprarie) for salami and other portable food treats. 

Go shopping!  Some of the most high-end boutiques can be found in and around the Piazza Maggiore and on Via Carbonesi.  Or you can do what I often did and just sit with a refreshing Campari in a pretty little piazza and watch the locals…doing the exact same thing.

What about the restaurants?  I have to confess that the most amazing food I had in Bologna was at the pasta school. Not only was I on a pasta making mission, I was there to sample the deeply restorative and comforting “tortellini en brodo” I’d heard about.  Well, we had it at the school and it ruined me for all other brodo, I wanted no other.  Their ragù was pretty incredible too and, by the way, they make it with lard. Yes – LARD.  They cook with lard over there, which explains so much of the transcendent yum.  Lucky for you the school is sometimes open to the public for meals if you call ahead, which I strongly encourage you to do!

I did get to experience a few local haunts when my Bologna-based friends took me on a tour of their favorite spots one mellow evening. First stop – a glass of prosecco at the rustic Osteria del Sole (Via de' Ranocchi 1), a 500 year old wine bar that’s bursting with character. 

Then, on to dinner at the friendly Trattoria Leonida (Vicolo Alemagna 2) to sample some regional specialties.  Think cozy, clove-infused wild boar stew over polenta, a meltingly tender pie of pheasant with truffles and surprisingly smooth yet chest-clearing sips of grappa to melt it all down.

 

What did I miss? A lot.  I was in Bologna to learn, not really sight see, so there’s quite a bit I need to return for. This is a thriving university town that’s brimming with stimulating activities!  There’s art:  MAMBO is the local modern art museum and there’s also Museo Morandi which is dedicated to the works of Giorgio Morandi, the famous still life artist.  There’s film: Cineteca di Bologna houses the entire Charlie Chaplin estate (and it’s unclear why) and also serves as a general town center for all things cinema.  There’s endless beautiful architecture to take in. 

There are fascinating day trips:  you can head out to Parma or Modena to the dairies where the glorious Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is crafted, and while you’re in Modena swing by the vineyards and see how they brew up that Balsamic vinegar that you love to toss in your salad.  And did you know that some of the world’s hottest cars: the Ferrari, the Lamborghini, the Ducati, the Maserati and the rare Pagani are made in this region?  Most of the factories are not open to the public, but many of these carmakers do have museums, so maybe you can at least touch one.  

And of course, I need to go back to sample more of the food!  There’s an organization, founded in Bologna, of Italian home cooks called “Cesarine” who are dedicated to preserving and promoting Italian culinary traditions and who host dinners in their homes.  Wouldn’t THAT be fun?

But that would all have to wait for another time.  Rome was waiting and I needed to move along…

(photo credits: all photos by Mary Connolly)